Nitty Gritty of Soil Testing including What is Does pH Matter With Clay and Liming Issues

Soil Test

A soil test provides information on the current nutrient and pH status of a sampling. A speciemen may be composed of either a collection from a specific area or collective sample. Depending on the way a sample is collected, results may be site specific or a broad estimate based on an average from the composite sampling.
Most basic soil tests analysis the nutrient status of the macro-nutients ( ones used in the largest amounts) as well as pH. The report summarizes its findings and then makes admendment recommendations based on the anaysis results and the information submitted with the soil sample. This best reports for homeowners break the recommendations into quanties that are based on smaller more familiar measurements more appropriate than recommendations intended for farmers and mass acareage.
I suggest you include current observations, present and past land use information as well as the intended crop or exisiting plant material and issues that prompted the testing. Also include a listing of all fertilizers, pesticides ( insecticides and fungicides ) that have already been applied. They may have influenced the current reading and impact the test report’s recommendations.

Understanding pH

The pH value or how acidic or basic the soil is, will influence the soil report’s recommendation to produce optimum plant growth. Each tests allows customizing the fertilizer, lime or sulfur applications as well the micro-nutrient levels needed to best suit your landscape and plant needs. Fertilizing without knowing the starting point of the soil’s nutrient level can result in problems with nutrient deficiencies (in the case of under-fertilization) or problems associated with over-fertilization such as excessive vegetative growth, lack of blooms, delayed maturity, salt burn, wasted money and just as importantly protect against any environmental hazards resulting from excessive fertilizer applications.

[The letters pH stand for “Power of Hydrogen” and is a measure of the molar concentration of hydrogen ions in the solution and as such is a measure of acidity.

The scale generally runs from 4.00, which is highly acid in soil terms and rather uncommon-(if you have a thriving garden- your soil is probably not in this range. 7.00 which is neutral and most desirable and relativly easy to achieve with some minimum effort. 8.00 is alkaline and desirable for some plants. This is more common in parts of Missouri because of the underground material that influences our soil and water.

To raise the pH and lower acidity or sweeten the soil, lime might be recommended- but organic matter can be effective to some degree. To lower pH and increase acidity sulphate of ammonia or urea may be added- too much or the wrong additive can lead to long term damage of the soil and a dead/ toxic zone where nothing will live. Organic matter and openning the air way to tight soil with natural materials has the ability to balance a soil to a more neutral range within reason. Nature has her ways!

KTRS 550 Inside Out Show Plant of the Week Sedum Ternatum January 10th 2008

Sedum ternatum

A shade tolerant low-growing succulent, Sedum ternatum is unique in its flower color, light preference and range of moisture tolerance. Although it has not been able to manage excessive moisture or poor drainage for any extended periods, it does mange well when besieged with periodic down pours and extended dry periods.

This native sedum could be an attractive candidate for the drier areas of water gardens where rock outcropping have thin soil and where moisture levels fluctuate considerably. Also it is a preferred choice for functional and ornamental dry creek beds that manage occasional storm water run off, the upper tier of rain gardens, and some green roof projects, depending on the site and situation. Of course it is especially wonderful when it is part of its natural habitat in the woodland community.

When it is extremely content, it spreads at a moderate rate, creating a showy blanket of twinkling white stars in mid-spring with a backdrop of crisp round-leaf greenery. This stone crop has been reported to occasionally stay green in the lower Midwest all winter.

It is naturally more tolerant of shade and moisture than other sedum species. It does also seem to bloom its best with morning light and filtered afternoon shade, however it is frequently recommended for full sun and light foot traffic.

Propagation is perhaps best done in late spring but there are reports of success throughout the growing season.Post bloom, the waning flower stems can be left in place if necessary without notable distraction however if there is only a moderate size planting, a few scissor snips may provide a somewhat more tidy appearance. Removing the flower heads will affect its potential for reseeding, but may show more spreading vigor.

For more information visit:

http://www.grownative.org/plants/info.asp?id=182
http://www.missouriplants.com/Whitealt/Sedum_ternatum_page.html

http://www.illinoiswildflowers.info/woodland/plants/wild_stonecrop.htm

http://www.mobot.org/gardeninghelp/plantfinder/Plant.asp?code=M310

Upcoming next topics from KTRS 550 Inside Out Show Saturday Jan 10

Native sedum

soil testing options

caring for peace lilies

and other follow up bits and pieces!

check in tomorrow!

KTRS Inside Out Show featured Plant of the Week Jan 3 2009 Ninebark

Ninebark ‘Center Glow’

Ninebark (Physocarpus opulifolius) ‘Center Glow’, is an offspring of our native woodland beauty. She is uniquely gifted at creating a work of art each season which features beautiful foliage patterns, attractive flowers, and wildlife friendly berries.

Like a young artist anxious to impress her admirers she starts each season by applying bold brush strokes of green-gold foliage to the spring landscape canvas.

However, she sets herself apart from her less adventurous contemporaries who limit themselves to shades of apple green. Instead this ninebark explores the complexities of garnet and peridot as she works to create this seasonal and very contemporary project.

First she tentatively outlines each leaf with a pencil-thin line of burgundy to draw the viewer's focus to the delicate silhouette of each leaf. Then she infuses more pigment till the the band of color floods each leaf, stopping short of the leaf's heart. A perfectly timed pause leaves the ruby melting into the shadows of gold as the centerpiece for each leaf.

Next, this naturally talented ninebark experiments with shading and degrees of saturation of color, until she is satisfied with the depth and intensity she has achieved with her invisible strokes.

As time becomes more pressing, she completes her leafy artwork by hurriedly adding a final wash of bright scarlet which dries in autumn’s chilling air.

Draped in dramatic shades of red, P. ‘Center Glow’ waits for the winds of winter to unveil this "A" plus project. Without any ceremonial tribute, she proudly ignores winter's bluster as the red-black mahogany and charcoal gray branches are gradually exposed revealing a natural still life that will remain on display till the next season's offers an opportunity to begin again.

[Center Glow’ was bred by Harold Pellett, Executive Director of the non-profit Landscape Plant Development Center in Mound, MN. He is a committed and passionate plantsman. He greatly cares about “every day pretty”, our environment, sustainability and the ornamental value of horticulture to a community and all its residents.]

KTRS 550 Inside Out Program Featured Plant of the Week

This is an exciting and reliable Hydrangea for the lower Midwest. So far in typical clay soil and varying degrees of warm temperatures, ‘Limelight’ has showcased clean refreshing pistachio green blooms that shifted to a soft cream by mid- season. She blushes a lingering soft rose when autumn makes his appearance, which she holds into the chill of the late hours of the season.
She is young and yet to display the fullness of maturity but she has not disappointed her many admirers with her blossom’s color shift.
She has looked comfortable in her surrounding for two full seasons in the morning sun.
She escapes the heat of mid-day, shaded by an admiring companion that wishes to remain anonymous.
Not any thirstier than most hydrangeas, her flower size and quantity may diminish if there is excessive heat, drying winds and not adequate moisture
I best appreciate her in the garden but I am told she is a great addition in fresh and dried arrangements as well!

Easy House Plants Recommended for KTRS 550 listeners

So here you go –Several suggestions for easy-care- house plants:
Zamioculcas zamiifolia (ZZ plant) - The ZZ can survive in just about any setting. It is a slow grower and has little demands for water and light, a very unique plant.
Peace lily – This is a long time favorite I frequently give to beginner indoor gardeners. This plant calls out when it is thirsty by completely collapsing in its pot. Soon, watering it becomes rather routine and less stressful for the plant. It also has a wide range of light tolerance.
Pothos or Philodendron - Most of the varieties grown for indoor use are trailing plants like ivies. There are lots of variations, including leaf sizes and yellow and white marbled foliage. With lower light levels the leaf coloration may not be as vibrant. These have few pest problems and require limited quantities of water.
Algerian ivy (Hedera canariensis) This ivy, also known as Canary Island ivy, has very large (4 to 8 inches long), heart-shaped, glossy leaves. ‘Gloire de Marengo’ is a widely grown cultivar that has creamy white edges around a gray and green center.

Aglaonema - One of my favorite groups of plants. Lots of color choices! Also many new Aglaonemas handle cold much better which make them perfect for four season rooms that occasionally take a chill!
Aspidistra - Also know as the cast-iron plant. This tough as nails houseplant was a favorite in Victorian times. Often touted as the toughest of house plants, it can also be boring to a point but still a safe choice.
Asplenium bulbiferum – Also known as Mother fern. This is my new favorite. It is a lacy fern with glossy looking greenish-yellow fronds.” Bulbiferum” refers to the production of small bulblets along the edge of each frond which adds to its delicate look. This is a wonderful and durable houseplant recommended by my friend Ricki Creamer of Red Cedar Country Gardens. Jim, her husband thought it did so well, it must be artificial (of course it wasn’t) Planted with her Algerian ivy, it sits in her kitchen, needing only average light and minimum care!

Common Borers of Missouri

Show Me Smart Gardening Best Management Practices:

Tree Care: Avoid Wood Borer Issues!

Most common borers of Missouri:

Flatheaded appletree borer
Roundheaded appletree borer
Shothole borer
Peachtree borer
Lesser peachtree borer
Dogwood borer

For more information on these borers click here

(For specific on Missouri and Emerald Ash Borer click here )

Show Me Smart Gardening Best Managment Practice Guidelines

Wood borers are attracted to stressed trees. The stress can be caused a variety of reasons including transplant shock, injury, (common causes: mechanical: pruning, machinery and animal damage or environmental including ice storm, wind damage and other weather induced injury from freeze and thaw cycles. Also drought, compacted soil and limited/ confined root room (competition from other trees, construction and hardscape such as pavement.)

Most of the time healthy trees can fend off wood borer attacks and are able to recover from a limited number of borer attacks.

BMP recommendations:

Avoid damaging tree trunks and roots with mowing equipment and string weed trimmers.
Avoid pruning oaks in spring and summer, when beetles carrying the oak wilt fungus and wood borer adults are active.
Do not have trees topped (cutting branches back to stubs in a hat-rack manner.) Topping stresses trees, increasing their risk of tree decline and death.
Place mulch around the base of trees to conserve moisture. Mulch should be distributed 2 to 3 inches deep in a ring around the tree, but should not touch the trunk or be piled against it in a volcano shape.
Provide supplemental water during summer droughts by allowing a hose to drip slowly on the soil above the root zone at approximately two-week intervals.
Wood borers are difficult to control with insecticides, and few insecticides are registered for treating wood borers in landscape trees. Attempts to use insecticides are likely to be ineffective and may have harmful effects for humans or the environment.