Sunday, February 28, 2010

KTRS 550 Inside Out Show Saturday February 27th Shout to Scout For Tent Worms Before It Gets MESSY


Show Me Smart Gardening Scout Training Notice: Anybody Can Do This!
by MaryAnn Fink
Conservation Specialist
copyright 2010

Now is the time to remove the egg masses of the Eastern Tent Caterpillars in Missouri. They will begin to hatch as the tree's buds are opening. Look especially on the younger "pencil" thickness size twig shoots for for small silver gray matter. The egg mass looks almost like metalic chewed gum wrapped partially around the twig . At the very least scouting is a simple and proactive step when deciding on whether there is a problem and possible approaches particularly for small young trees that aren’t big enough to just shrug off the headache of the spring leaf damage this pest can cause!

The glistening egg masses are easy to see, and require minimal effort at this stage to remove. They can be prune or scrape off but that usually isn't even necessary! Just give them a quick rub between your thumb and fingers! This will turn the dried mass to fairy –like dust that will surely encourages Spring to hurry.

Look for these glitter globs (egg masses) right now on bright sunny days when they are easiest to see (Isn't everyone walking the landscape at least weekly anyway? I prefer mornings with a cup of coffee with skim and sweetner and my sweet-sweet Lucy-dog. We are both hoping to have have more days like today soon!) It seems apple, cherry, plum, crabapple, are Eastern Tent Caterpillar’s favorites!

Seeing Red

My red top fades but so does the maturing red twig dogwood! Winter stem color is lost because of aging; however its shoots can be severely pruned to near ground every 3-4 years to promote uniform twig color.

This seems to be a more efficient and easier rejuvenation step than struggling yearly to remove only some of the older twigs of the maturing dogwood without damaging the younger newer shoots!

Both ways yield satisfactory results but selective pruning does require attention to detail, skill and patience.

Encouraging a full flush of growth of new shoots is demanding for a plant so this practice needs to be well times before leaf break and may delay some normal sequencing and affect attainable height in the landscape. Please note: this is an example of extreme management and it could conceivably contribute to partial or complete specimen failure in some situations.

Redtwig dogwoods already have appreciable value for soil stabilization, water and soil conservation. It is also receiving positive attention for use as a beneficial pollinator attractant and rain garden choice, especially where ornamental functionals are desirable.

It does have notable tolerance for recovery after natural pruning and the much less natural but frequent roadside abuse. It has been a star performer despite challenging situations and tolerates these alternate management events with consistent color impact. This care management practice is an option that might be best applied after establishment in the landscape. There is always the possibility that this might weaken or decrease the overall vigor of the plant.

Saturday, February 20, 2010

KTRS 550 Inside Out Show Bonus Info Kiss Your Grass Goodbye


Did you Mean to Kiss Your Grass Goodbye?
by MaryAnn Fink
Conservation Specialist
copyright 2010

When to cut back ornamental grass is a source of confusion for homeowners. I receive calls frequently in mid-late spring about hardy ornamental grasses “that were fine last year but have not grown back this year”. After further questioning, I am seeing what seems to be a related pattern that involves the following sequence:

1-Yardeners: homeowners anxious to do something/ anything to be outside and get ahead of spring,
2-A situation that involves “Flat top/ fall out” grass debris after snow melt
3-Early / late winter cutting back grasses before green up occurs

This pattern can lead to kissing you grass goodbye:

1-sever die back at crown level
2-irregular crown growth
3-crown rot / total demise

Some sources tell people to cut back grasses in late winter, some say early spring. "Which is it?" My answer is species dependant: Most but not all ornamental grasses are actually warm weather grasses that don’t begin growing till spring warm up is consistent. So know your grass category. Cool season grasses can be cut back as soon as you see your cool season turf grasses such as fescus and bluegrass begins to grow.

My best guess from years of experience with this that the warm season grasses appear to be getting some protection from the growth, keeping them buffered from fluctuating temperatures, cold snaps and from getting “over wet” from spring moisture by the pervious year’s growth acting as a insulator and umbrella for the most sensitive part of any grass- the crown.

I suggest if you must cut some amount of the weathered grass early because of “flatten grass sprawl” or breakage- cut only half or the most offending part of the grass, but still leavie a good amount of the dense last year’s grass shafts to keep the tender soft crown of the grass at ground level warm and dry.

All this talk of warm and cool season grasses (and please note some are annuals in Missouri) has probably got you asking a few questions such as , "Just which ones are hardy? Which are warm season? And, which ones are cool season?" Also there is some concern that grasses trimmed a little late might lose the tips of the newest growth. My question is- would you really notice and would that ruin your season?-I hope not. I do not think most people ever examine their grass tips once the season is moving along!

Below is a chart of some common ornamental grasses. Note also that some grasses are not winter hardy in Missouri but still provide many of the same attributes without the periodic division/ care that is required at least occasionally (every 3-5 years -depending on the grass) This division need raises the care level for these plants at maturity.

Also note that fescue ( Festuca) and Helictotrichon can be evergreen in mild winters and are more likely to suffer and or die out from our heat in the summer. Also some of these grasses may not need to be cut back but might have to be re-planted just like the annual grasses, so these might be best considered a seasonal plant. If they were planted in the fall, and still look pretty good by the end of March, instead of a haircut, they might just need some grooming, more of a “comb out” of any worn foliage on the outside perimeter of the clump. I will add a list and links to Missouri Botanical Garden as I get time for now do your own reseach about your grass- before you kiss your grass goodbye!

KTRS 550 Inside Out Show Saturday February 20 2010 Bur oak


The Bur oak
by MaryAnn Fink
Conservation Specialist
copyright 2010

The modest bur oak (Quercus macrocarpa) is an under appreciated tree that deserves a shout out and more observations use as a great environmental choice for energy and water conservation.

This member of the white oak group has clean shiny forest green leaves. Although oaks are falsely accused to be slow growers, this does not appear to be true when in cultivated spaces where they are less challenged with competition from a forest full of other trees. There is lots of variability-which makes each Bur oak totally unique!

Actually it seems possible that bur oak might be one of the faster growing members of the white oak group, especially once he has established his primary root system. There are some forestry reports that bur oak can compete with the rate of silver maples as far as visible growth including girth rate. Once he has recovered from his transplant shock /adjustment phase of 3-5 years, it is possible for him to contribute as an impressive place marker to a green space for more than 200 years! Planting this tree is visionary as far as sustainability and conservation!

The best part is the bur oak can be a memory tree for every one who sees him, and he can do this for multiple generations! (I always try to take a minute as I stand next to a tree to consider the many caretakers it takes to get to that moment in time and I am thankful)

Following a Bur oak as he changes from his flexible and youthful appearance to a mature stable adult tree is fast enough to be exciting! A mature bur oak can be nothing less than stunning!

And for those concerned with acorn clean up- you have a long wait. Maturity doesn’t arrive till this big guy is well past 25 years! Once acorns are produced, they occur only every 3-5 years and are easy to clean up and a grand food source for wildlife. Habitat use for but oak increases with age and height- birds like this high rise with housing options!

This clay lover requires no special care is needed except mulching near his trunk base to prevent mechanical weed trimmer/ lawn mower damage. A healthy bur oaks may flush (or produce new growth) as much as twice a season. He may alternate the direction of his energy to his roots or to top growth depending on his needs as he adapts to his living situation and its changes. – He is handsome and adaptable!

Although native to Missouri’s low woods and stream valleys in the Ozark region and the dry upland soils in the unglaciated parts of the state north of the Missouri River (Steyermark), Bur oak is also well appreciated by our neighboring state, Illinois, he is their State Tree. Way to go Illinois!
Bonus Information next: What Not to Do Now -Unless You WANT to Kiss Your Grass GOODBYE / Ornamental grass care!

Saturday, February 13, 2010

KTRS 550 Inside Out Show Saturday February 13 2010




Rose Painted Prayer Plant
by MaryAnn Fink
Conservation Specialist
copyright 2010

Rose Painted Prayer Plant (Calathea) sports beautiful leaf foliage with intricate veining and colorful leaf patterns. Frequently used as an foliage plant, she is a long lived colorful addition to the indoor garden / houseplant collection when the light exposure is bright but indirect or filtered. She is perennial native to Upper Amazon in North West Brazil, and tropical South America.

Like many members of the Marantaceae family, she shares the characteristic feature of folding up her leaves at dusk, as if ending her day in evening prayer, hence the common name, Prayer Plant. As the new day begins, her leaves return to a praise pose, a upward facing fairly horizontal position which allows the leaves to return to their blessed work. For me, this is a perfect reminder to start and end the day in prayer and that every day is a gift worth of praise!

Care factor rating: 3/ Houseplants: Site her an appropriate distance away from direct sunlight as that will quickly scorch her leaves. Water her with de-chlorinated room temperature water. (I use my left over drinking water from my night stand glass for watering. This manages both the water temperature issue and allows the chlorine to dissipate) To keep her moisture level even, allow the soil surface to only dry slightly between watering, I water a small amount every day!

She does do best in houses with humidifiers. Too low of humidity may cause her to have browning leaf margins. Remove any declining leaves as needed and only repot when she is heavily pot-bound! A petite but not picky eater, feed her only once every 4-6 weeks with any general liquid houseplant fertilizer mixed at half strength.

She is salt sensitive! To keep fertilizer from accumulating in the soil, this will cause the leaf edges to become ‘crispy’ or curled, flush the soil every two weeks and allow all run off water to drain away. This can be done about every 2 weeks. Avoid placing her where the furnace vents will blow dry air on her large leaves. This causes dried out leaf edges!

Although she seems quite resistant to most indoor pests-check all house plants now for spider mites, white fly, mealy bugs and fungus gnats! Keep in mind the cure can be just as hard on the plants as the problem so this is a good time to toss any seriously declining house plants and refresh your indoor garden with new additions!

(Calthea is shown above with another popular winter blooming houseplant Cyclamen).

Many flowering house plants are considered to have a primary season of interest and are considered temporary addition, to be thrown away when flowering stops. Although many have been managed to have a main focus period, some will adapt and can be very long lived with proper care. A few, such as cyclamen have hardy selections that can be planted outdoor! Follow this link for more information on hardy cyclamen: Hardy cyclamen

Saturday, February 6, 2010

KTRS 550 Inside Out Show February 6 2010 Winter aconite


Winter aconite

by MaryAnn Fink
Conservation Specialist
copyright 2010


Winter aconite is the common name for Eranthis hyemalis. This is a sweet early bloomer that is actually a bulb that is flowering now. Keep a sharp eye out for these little flowers as they first appear in the sunniest spots. Sometimes in mild winters she will flower as early as February, or just before the first snowdrops (Galanthus nivalis begin to bloom) , this year, most are just getting started.

This little sweetie sports a clear yellow buttercup-like flower that is trimmed with a lacy green collar which is balanced on stout little ground hugging stalk. She is brave, frequently poking her head out just as the last snows melt- several years both happened early to mid-March in my garden.

She sends up the rest of her foliage topside as her flowers begin to fade. These apple green sun collectors act as natural energy receptors capturing the earliest sun rays to recharge her underground energy bank. They also act as a marker/ reminders of her pre-season flower show. By the time spring is in full swing, her foliage will have completed its work, withered and disappeared till the following spring.This ground-hugging bulb looks great when used around small water features and fairy garden with average to well drained soil.

Although petite enough for pocket rock gardens, this little dear is not reported to do very well in extreme and extended droughts, even if she is asleep!She also looks perfect as a temporary mini-ground cover beneath shrubs and trees in a woodland garden. For pastel lovers that dream of early but endless spring, consider creating a patchwork of winter aconite, Bishop’s hat (epimedium), wild ginger (asarum canadense), creamy white Lenten flowers (hellebores) and the littlest daffodils like Tête-à-tête. Be sure to plant all of these in multiples, especially these minis in generous handfuls at least!

This “shades of yellow” parade of Winter aconite will hint, blend and pull the early garden show together, especially when back dropped with larger stream- side woodland favorites such as Hamamelis vernalis, Cornelian Cherry Dogwood, and Forsythia.

Winter aconite seems to do well in these types of shrub combinations especially when placed under these companion friendly deciduous shrubs where there is minimal root disturbance. They also seem to prefer this over “summer moist” irrigated situations such as turf and flower beds.(Suggestion: for those hoping to have at least a throw rug size carpet of these, place rocks at the edge of the foliage blanket as a “do not disturb” sign/ marker as an off season reminder to minimize any soil disturbance. These are very small bulbs that grow close to the surface and are easily damage, dislocated or buried)

Plant these “bulbs” as soon as they are available in the fall. Pick for plump and the bigger the better is a good rule of thumb (however this is all relevant as they are usually very small and wrinkled-it is a just a matter of degree!) To improve the odds of success, buy early, hand pick, store for 2-3 days in moist sand or peat moss to re-hydrate and plant as early as possible. Preferred depth in clay soils is 1-2”, this is shallow but best for good results in our heavy soils.

Winter aconite can reproduces and spreads when in ideal conditions. To reduce or limit the quantity, simply lift with shovel any excess while the foliage is still green. To encourage spreading, avoid vigorous clean up anytime and foot traffic as this can damage the small soft bulbs which as so close to the surface!These are best in locations that enjoy winter sun that eventually becomes shaded some by neighboring trees and shrubs as the season progresses!
Consider viewing and placement where flowers can be appreciated in late winter!

Care factor rating: 1 Remove spent flowers after bloom to encourage storage of energy. Follow the suggested purchase procedure and pre-planting re-hydrate routine. Be sure to visit the Missouri Botanical Garden this spring to see these in bloom and then mark your calendar