KTRS Inside Out Show Plant of the Week November 27 2010

Happy Holly Days

Ilex x meserveae ‘Castle Spire’

by

MaryAnn Fink

Conservation Specialist

copyright 2010

Castle Spire is a new variety of Ilex x meserveae. This “blue holly” is reported to have good vigor for the extremes of Missouri. Although she was selected especially for her tight dense growth and her narrow upright silhouette, it is her well developed branching that catches the eye. This is a notable improvement for this type of holly!

She has an above average shape formed by her dense branching. She looks natural and balanced as she showcases her bountiful dark foliage. Her forest green complexion accentuates the brightness of her cheery red berries.

It might be tempting to bring her home to be a “one and only” because she will surely slip into even some tight spots with ease. But, resist the urge and instead consider massing her in a staggered grouping. Strategically placed along with a few other “winter showy” performers, she could easily anchor a serene snow-scape. She is pretty enough to be the featured in a living art vignette that would provide the needed structure / “bones” for a year round bird sanctuary!

Her placement is critical for maximum enjoyment! Choose your most visible location for her to be framed by your favorite window. She is furniture rearrangement worthy! Plan for maximum viewing pleasure from a warm and comfy spot!

Care Factor Rating: 1 This naturally narrow compact upright holly must be watered regularly till established. She does not require pruning when given proper space. She appreciates a gentle hand for the only occasional / random shoot trimming! Pruning at any time might affect her berry production!

Bonus tip
Design Suggestion: Consider a beautiful set of triplets in a staggered grouping end-capped with a strong Colorado blue spruce. Like a red Christmas ribbon that weaves through the grouping lace them together with several Red Twig Dogwoods ‘Cardinal’. Back-dropped all of these “pretties” with ‘Red Sprite’ and one ‘Jim Dandy’ deciduous hollies. (Hide him mostly behind the Blue Spruce since he is not so showy!)

Trim out the front edge of this winter fantasy collection with a few evergreen perennials such as Christmas fern. Finally, add a pretty bird bath. For the most wildlife friendly and natural look, consider a year round water feature, such as a phantom fountain that runs all winter with a short bird friendly creek bed!

(Use CASTLE WALL™ somewhere in the landscape as the pollinator for ‘Castle Spire’)

A Few of My Favorite Things (Can you hear me humming tune from Sound of Music?)
Castle Spire Holly Ilex x meserveae (new to me favorite)
Cornus ‘Cardinal’ Red-Twig Dogwood ( Long Time Fav)
Ilex verticillata ‘Red Sprite’ and ‘Jim Dandy’ (Deciduous Holly) (So showy-so easy)
Colorado Blue Spruce. (Picea pungens) (Ahhh)
Bird bath / water feature ( a must for me: always make wildlfe gardening a habit (tat)

KTRS %%) INside Out Show Plant of the Week Noember 21

Beautyberry

Callicarpa dichotoma is a non-native cousin of our American Beautyberry (Callicarpa americana), qualifying it as another one of my favorite shrubs!

This pretty pastel berried relative has many cultivar names- all with the same common name of beautyberry. It is clear that good looks run in the family and a reminder of how important it is to know botanical names when searching for plants!

This beautyberry is a small stature soft stemmed fountain shaped shrub. She does stay considerably shorter that her native cousin. This is partially because of her thin “oh so nimble” canes that bow to the point of nearly touching the ground when fully burdened with fruit and full leaf.

Her canes, if pruned off at the base and laid out flat on the ground could conceivably be 5’ or longer but because of her relaxed posture, she frequently reaches a growing height under 4' tall. This does mean she extends her width by season’s end. Allow some extra room for her mature full figure. Her cascading fountain shape needs to flex comfortably to look her best!

Summer catches her making a very girly effort to dress up. She sports a repeated series of small Barbie-doll bouquets of lavender rose in her leaf axils all along her wiry stems. These are attractive to butterflies and pollinators! (She is a distant relative of lantana and verbena!)

These flowers then become her “beautyberries. Her gracefully flexed willowy branches flaunt her beaded clusters of amethyst fruit as if she is posing for a “best dressed” red carpet award!

These clusters of pastel purple berries are then chilled to perfection, deepening to vivid violet. This is accentuated first by her “oh so yellow” leaves and then by her tawny bare naked stems. Such a beauty!

These berries typically remain intact for several weeks becoming a song bird treat with minimal mess!

Care Factor Rating: 2 She must be watered regularly until established but after that she is very drought tolerant. She performs best when given a hard pruning to near ground level (leave 3-6” of growth) Do this each spring before leaf bud breaks.

She is a slow to moderate growing cane shrub like many of our best performer. This means she spreads gradually by increasing from the crown / base by producing new shoots from the base annually. This makes her a perfect choice for low hedge or part of a screen grouping. If her individual personality is to remain defined, consider limiting the basal area / spread of this shrub in early spring before the leaves develop. Beautyberry is mostly disease and pest free. Flowering and fruiting are best when several are planted together!

KTRS 550 Inside Out Show Bonus Tip Details How To Water Your Newly Planted Tree

This is my recomendations if you have just planted a decidious tree in the last week. Of course you did water at the time of installtion per my earlier instructions Now, 5-7 days after planting your tree, you will need to establish a moisture checking routine.

I did my "after planting the tree" post planting check after ourt first watering to check to see how well the water had penetrated and dispersed within the tree's root zone.

I recomend doing this within the first 24 hours since the most serious damage to roots after installation happens when the roots of the tree closest to the edge of the root ball dries down too much!

Dry roots can cause signifacant damage. Keep in mind even though there are no leaves present on your tree to use up the water, the water will drain away or be "wick away" as it saturates the surrounding soil. The surface moisture also evaporates- so there are many ways to lose root moisture so don't be surprised if your tree needs water!

In our situation we were very dry before planting so we did a 50 Count initially. We rechecked in 24 hours and did an additional 25 count watering protocal with satisfactory penetration in the root zone. ( the only way to know that is to dig down 6-8" at the mulch edge and feel the soil!)

In a perfect world, it would have been nice to have been watering the entire area all fall a minimum of 1/2-1" of water weekly this would help us balance the mosture needs faster and easier, perhaps with less water)

We are now doing a every 5 day check for the next couple of weeks to get to know our site. If the top 6-8' of the soil around the root ball is dry to the touch- we will water!

As starters we are doing a "75 Count Watering Procedure". This may reduce to 50 or even 25 depending on our weather and percipitation. We recieved less than 1/4" the other night- not enough to even count!

See the instructions below for how is how to do this!

75 Count Watering Procedure:

Counting to 75 slowly with the hose running at a moderate rate.

Starting with the stream of water close to the trunk and water in a gradually widening circle till you have watered all the way to the edge of the tree mulch edge- then reduce the circle of water size till you are back to watering near the trunk again. Do this repeatedly as you count slowly to 75. It should only take 1-2 minutes to moisten the root ball and the surrounding soil. (I prefer to remove the hose nozzel to reduce the water stream force)

Please note you will need to be watering your tree throughout the winter as needed. Also remember to disconnect your hose from your faucet between watering!

(see general guidlines posted earlier )

KTRS 550 Inside Out Show Bonus Tip Watering Fall Planted Tree

TREE WATERING GUIDE FOR FALL PLANTED TREES

By MaryAnn Fink
Conservation Specialist
Copyright 2010

Water is the most important thing for a new tree. All plants need to be watered for at least the first full year, the first 3 summers and in times of prolong drought.

The following is a suggested guide for how to water a deciduous tree planted in the fall- particularly this fall 2010 which has been so dry! (Deciduous trees are trees that lose their leaves! Typically all leaves have been shed before planting day)

Please note that these are just my guidelines based on a few of Frisella Nursery's suggestions and with my own explainations and recommendations. Adjustments may still have to be made depending on your specific site and soil-check with me via my website if you have any questions.

PLEASE NOTE THAT ALL FALL PLANTED TREES NEED TO BE WATERED BEFORE PLANTING AND AGAIN WITHIN THE FIRST 24 HOURS OF WHEN THEY ARE PLANTED REGARDLESS OF HOW WET THE GROUND.

THIS IS TO REMOVE LARGE AIR VOIDS IN THE SURROUNDING SOIL AND BALANCE THE MOISTURE BETWEEN THE NEW SOIL and SITE AND THE ESTABLISHED ROOT BALL / ZONE.

The time between watering after the initial watering will vary depending on your soil, so checking the trees about every 5-7 days is recommended.

The best way to check is to actually dig down about 8 to 10" along the side of the root ball (or about 8-10” away from the trunk). Check the soil of the root ball at that depth; if wet do not water but go ahead and recheck again the next day,

If dry water the tree again and then keep checking the tree about every 5 days, and if slightly moist check in 7 days again. After several times of checking a schedule develops and you know about how long it takes for your tree to dry.

During the fall, the roots are still active and so still need moisture but the quantity is less than when the tree is leafing out in the spring and during the summer when it is maintaining a full canopy of leaves.

Water is naturally drains or is wicked away by the constantly changing moisture levels in the surrounding soil but the root zone will still need moisture until the roots have extended beyond the original root space. As a tree’s roots develop they become an extensive moisture collecting network. A thriving mature tree can and will compete for available moisture but it takes time to become established!

FALL PLANTING TIME IS September – December! Depends on the amount of rainfall we receive and how long the plants have been in the ground your watering will need to be customized to your site. Generally speaking the time between watering does become more spaced out as we reach the coldest part of winter time.

TIP FOR EVERYBODY: A deep watering in late in fall helps all plants go through winter by protecting them from freezing dry.

WINTER :( December - February) Watering is necessary in this time frame because we have had a dry fall. Also if we have a dry winter (sometimes we are very cold but with little snow!). If that is the case a slow watering on mild days (45 to 50 degrees) will be required!

It is not uncommon for trees planted in heavy clay to occasionally go 2 to 3 weeks between watering, especially in a “wet” fall and winter when rain and snow are plentiful and there are no leaves to be maintained.

(PLEASE ALSO NOTE THAT WATERING PROTOCAL WILL CHANGE IN THE SPRING ESPECIALLY WHEN YOUR NEW TREE IS PUSHING OUT ITS NEW LEAVES AND AGAIN WHEN THE SEASON PROGRESSES. NEVER ASSUME A TREE NEEDS OR DOESN’T NEED WATER ALWAYS CHECK. MANY TREES WILL LOOK WILTED WHEN THEY ARE TOO DRY, TOO WET, OR TOO HOT. DO NOT ASSUME THAT IT NEEDS WATER; YOU WILL HAVE TO DIG DOWN AND CHECK THE SOIL!

PLEASE NOTE: EACH TREE IS DIFFERENT AND EACH INDIVIDUAL TREE MAY USE WATER DIFFERENTLY THEN SURRONDING PLANTS, SPOT WATERING MAY BE NEEDED DURING THE GROWING SEASON FOR THE NEXT FEW YEARS!

Thank you Frisella Nursery's Adan Briagas and Morgan's newly planted Magnolia 'Shiraz' for posing for this snapshot!

550 KTRS Inside Out Show Plant of the Week November 13 2010

Vanderwolf' Pine (Pinus flexilis 'Vanderwolf's Pyramid')

by MaryAnn Fink

Conservation Specialist

copyright 2010

Vanderwolf' Pine, sometimes called Limber pine is a choice selection of a U.S. native pine found primarily at high elevations. Despite his thin air preference, he seems to be fairly adaptable to our heavier, more humid conditions and tolerant of the rocky and lean soils sometimes found in Missouri.

Although this pine could easily reach a mature size of 25-60’ in his natural conditions, he is more likely to feel the stress of our different climate and weather shifts and respond by growing more slowly and perhaps mature at 18-25’ height with half as much width.

Introduced in 1972, he is still not widely planted in Missouri. This makes it difficult to estimate any long range predictions for his cultivated life span in St. Louis, but it is safe to say it is probably much shorter than in his natural conditions. Some estimates are as much as 15 years plus or longer.

When well sited he is reported to be healthy and a very positive contributor to the landscape. He has a soft blue-green appearance at a distance but as you approach him, his beautiful two-tone needles cluster becomes apparent. This gives him the unique ability to be the transitional player between the solid blue tones of a blue spruce or the softening anchor for the emerald greens of Juniper ‘Sea Green’ or ‘Keteleeri’. For color play consider using him as the blender between several different shades of greens and blues!

P. ‘Vanderwolf’ could be the "Ambassador for Diversity" in the landscape for a new and interesting way to create an informal screen. He has a fairly straight posture but rather asymmetrical to the ground branching. This creates a naturally relaxed pose / loose screening that gives some privacy while still allowing light and air flow.

Vanderwolf' Pine will grow best in full sun and average soil. He does require good drainage and even moisture year round. (Yes –this means you will need to water on mild days during the winter) He is not tolerant of consistently or even occasionally soggy soil!

To view him growing locally, visit Missouri Botanical Garden. Also there are some nice examples at Powell Gardens in the Kansas City region, a particularly healthy one is growing near one of their trolley stops. I was so impressed with his tolerance for the nearly constant drying winds they have year round. (better than me-it can be cooling but also exhausting to be so wind whipped!) He appears to be happy there, adapting and growing well with beautiful healthy needles!

Care Factor Rating: 2 He does want to form a stabilizing taproot even at a young age so transplanting him when he is young is preferred. Follow a regular watering schedule during the first growing season to establish a deep, extensive root system. Although watering can be reduced after establishment, he will still need water during the winter and during seasonal dry periods. No pruning is recommended!

photo curtesy of Missouri Botanical Garden PlantFinder

KTRS 550 Inside Out Show Plant of the Week November 6 2010

Nyssa sylvatica ‘Wildfire’

by MaryAnn Fink

Conservation Specialist

copyright 2010

He is the offspring of Missouri’s native Nyssa (Black gum) which has a rich heritage of a persistent population on both Missouri’s dry rocky slopes and the southern lowlands.

This natural population demonstrates the versatility needed to thrive in Missouri’s ever changing seasons, but this new cultivar also has fall color that rival the intensity of any Maple. Finnally a tree that has both native endurance and the main stream public’s desire for ornamental attributes!

This cultivar / selection is quite adaptable to the wide range of soil types typically encountered in urban situations including clay, inconsistent moisture levels and poor drainage- this make him a good choice for the average yardener. He is also likely to catch the trained designer's eye of landscape architects who demand picture pretty options. Even municipalities struggling for more "storm water friendly" choices will like his ability to “fit the bill” as a thriving filter option for long term use! (Can you say “rain gardens”?)

Although this cultivar is new to the market, it appears that N. ‘Wildfire already has his fan club! Those who love unique foliage coloration will think this handsome offspring of “Nyssa-The King of Color” will appreciate his "bonus feature": his new growth is notably red-tipped. Eventually as the growth matures it turns a wonderful shade of forest green)

Growers are already giving him rave reviews. I suppose it is only a matter of time before he will run the risk of being over planted by tree connoisseurs who have finally found the perfect tree! I admit he looks to be “the answer” for difficult sites that “must have” multi-seasonal attributes. He doesn't need pruning so he is also likely to be on the top of the list for the energy conscious as well!

He is predicted to have a tamer habit and somewhat smaller build than his wild relatives. This makes him acceptable for the smaller spaces where the common species might be crowed.

Size and growth factors do vary in climates and growing conditions. At this early point in his career, he is anticipated to have at least a slow to moderate growth rate, with the potential of reaching 20-30’ feet in 10 to 15 years. His estimated mature size seem to vary considerably depending on information sources but expect a spread less than half his height in perfect situations. His profile is frequently compared to being similar to pin oak. His lowest limbs may eventually need to be removed for street clearance, depending on the tree and the site situation.

N. ‘Wildfire’ certainly has a flair for color but he also has his parent’s straight upright form so he can play the role of a featured specimen in a formal setting or be used in casual landscape. He is actually so good looking, that he perfect whenever more is better!He is also the “new option” for edging the transition zone into an existing tree community. Consider planting your own woodland sanctuary with him as a main component. He is as truly as handsome as he is versatile!

He does produce rather small, greenish-white flowers that most consider " insignificant." Both male and female flowers are present on the same tree but only the female blossoms become nectar-packed energy drinks for our important beneficial pollinators. If ideal Midwest weather occurs, these modest little flowers are replaced by small persistent energy snack fruits that are attractive to song birds. This makes him perfect for both urban situations , municipal park use and habitat freindly green spaces.

Care Factor Rating: 1 He must be watered regularly till established. He has a naturally straight trunk that supports well balanced, well spaced and angled branching so minimal pruning if any is needed! Remove only the occasional damaged or dead branch) N. 'Wildfire' also appears to be less susceptible to leaf spot.

image curtesty of Missouri Botanical Garden