Monday, December 20, 2010

KTRS 550 Inside Out Show Plant of the Week Saturday December 18 2010


American holly (Ilex opaca)


by MaryAnn Fink

Conservation specialist


copyright 2010


The classic American holly is native to southeastern Missouri.
She is truly one of Missouri’s most beautiful evergreen trees. Her strong upright posture, cheery red berries and spiny leaves create a perfect backdrop for a winter wonderland setting.

Her eventual broad base and her casually irregular shape develops over time. At maturity, these attributes lend an informal, pleasantly relaxed aspect to the landscape. Although her growth rate is considered slow in cultivation, she is dependable and long lived with minimum care.

When she is pruned hard regularly to a defined shape, she can become overstressed and lose some of her appeal. In a preferred setting with deep sandy soil, good drainage and adequate moisture she can potentially reach shade tree status. At a better than fair height of 35-45’ tall, she can carry a significant “wow” factor! If this is the goal, plan for her significant width as well! (Plant for at 10’ base minimum for adequate spacing. If a cultivar or selection is chosen, requirements may differ.

The American holly can be either male or female, but only the female will have berries. Both sexes must be present to ensure fruiting. The fruiting age varies with each tree. Berry production has been reported to occur as early as 3 years and as late as 9 years. The quantity of berries also varies from year to year. Individual tree’s production cycles normally vary from year to year. Also weather conditions, environmental stress and pollinator proximity are factors. Pruning can also decrease or eliminate fruiting as well. Choose trees at time of purchase with at least some fruit if berries are desirable for ornamentation or as food source for birds. Many song birds find holly berries very attractive!

Care Factor Rating: 2-3 This is a naturally steady grower but she does require regular watering year round in order to look and grow her best. Like most evergreens, expect to give her routine care during her establishment period. This is typically at least a minimum of 2 full years and possibly 3 years.

She must be watered regularly till established. Soil testing is recommended before planting to prepare the soil and periodically to be sure iron remains at an available level.
She does tolerate heavy pruning but does not perform her best under those conditions. Given optimal space and conditions and expect optimal results!

If allowed to grow naturally, her “care factor rating drops from 3 to 2 as pruning becomes minimal but her primary need for moisture will continue for the life of the tree for optimal appearance and performance. This makes proper placement critical! She can be very drought tolerant after she has established but is not as likely to look her best.

She is frequently listed as deer resistant however I would say “deer tolerant” is a better description. A well established tree suffering from some visibility issues because of natural pruning can be” prune managed” gently. Heavy and repeated browsing can greatly affect her aesthetic appeal. Fencing and deer repellants are frequently recommended.

By far, the most common cause of yellowing and leaf drop is the loss of older leaves that occurs every spring, just before, and during the development of new growth. So the next time you notice yellow leaves on your holly trees, take a moment to consider the time of year. If it’s springtime, chances are the condition is normal, seasonal and temporary, and no cause for concern.

Extreme winter cold, especially bouts of sub-zero temperatures, can cause yellowing in some years. On rarer occasions any of several leaf-spotting diseases may be the culprit. Their damage is more likely to be cosmetic, rather than life-threatening. More commonly, a lengthy period of drought during the heat of summer can contribute to considerable yellowing and premature loss of leaves.
Newly planted hollies are most vulnerable to drought injury, and should be watered weekly, beginning in early summer and fall. Winter watering will be “as needed” but does require monitoring the soil moisture.

Friday, December 17, 2010

Personal Christmas Message Friends and Family


I do consider myself a “senior” these days and am wearing my graying hair proudly as a sign of the changes that have brought me to this point in my life.

I heard this senior version of the children’s song, “Jesus Loves Me,” read on the Bott Radio station the other day and wanted to share it.
The words brought to mind the challenges we face as we age.

It also caused me to pondered Noah’s story. God “worked” him and blessed him and his family in his senior years.
It made me consider that as I mature, the complexities of knowing God for me at least has become much greater.

A few of my elder friends have been great witnesses. As they have become increasing aware that their days are numbered- I acknowledge so are mine.

Noah’s blessing/ burden was complicated, intense, specific, time oriented and outwardly evident ( it never said anywhere that he hid his ark! So I quit hiding my gray!)
And my favorite part, Noah's blessing was inclusive: Noah’s family benefited from Noah’s rightousness and relationship with God. I have been blessed through my family, especially through my sisters, and especially Joanne, who cradled a little lamb like this in her arms and played this song so many times in her last days. I pray now that God blesses my family in their time of need.

As this celebration of the Holy Night approaches, my prayer is that all my family and my “Family in Christ” is blessed.
Thank you to all who have crossed my path for being any part of my life!
( humm the tune and read the words- oh they are so true!)

JESUS LOVES ME
Jesus loves me, this I know,Though my hair is white as snow.Though my sight is growing dim,Still He bids me trust in Him.

(CHORUS)

Yes, Jesus loves me!Yes, Jesus loves me.Yes, Jesus loves me!The Bible tells me so.
Though my steps are oh, so slow,With my hand in His I’ll goOn through life, let come what may,He’ll be there to lead the way.

(CHORUS)

Though I am no longer young,I have much which He’s begun.Let me serve Christ with a smile,Go with others the extra mile.

(CHORUS)

When the nights are dark and long,In my heart He puts a song.Telling me in words so clear,“Have no fear, for I am near.”

(CHORUS)

When my work on earth is done,And life’s victories have been won.He will take me home above,Then I’ll understand His love

(CHORUS)

I love Jesus , does He know?Have I ever told Him so?Jesus loves to hear me say,That I love Him every day.
(Author unknown)


Thank you also to those who offered verse and web pages for these verses that address my aging issues-I hope I got them right!


I have been young, and now am old; yet have I not seen the righteous forsaken, nor his seed begging bread. Psalm 37:25.


Cast me not off in the time of old age; forsake me not when my strength faileth. Psalm 71:9.
O God, thou hast taught me from my youth: and hitherto have I declared thy wondrous works. Now also when I am old and greyheaded, O God, forsake me not; until I have shewed thy strength unto this generation, and thy power to every one that is to come. Psalm 71: 17-18.


Those that be planted in the house of the LORD shall flourish in the courts of our God. They shall still bring forth fruit in old age; they shall be fat and flourishing; To shew that the LORD is upright: he is my rock, and there is no unrighteousness in him. Psalm 92:13-15.


Both young men, and maidens; old men, and children: Let them praise the name of the LORD: for his name alone is excellent; his glory is above the earth and heaven. Psalm 148: 12-13.


The glory of young men is their strength: and the beauty of old men is the grey head. Proverbs 20:29.


The hoary (silver or grey) head is a crown of glory, if it be found in the way of righteousness. Proverbs 16:31.

Sunday, December 12, 2010

KTRS 550 Inside Out Show Plant of the Week for Saturday December 11 2010


Boxwood 'Green Mountain'


by

MaryAnn Fink

Conservation Specialist

copyright 2010

Thank Goodness 'Green Mountain' Boxwood is an evergreen shrub that can tolerate St. Louis’s weather extremes, at least fairly well!

This boxwood is hardier that many boxwoods currently available. He seems to suffer less from winter burn, stem dieback and insect and disease issues. He also has an even growth habit that helps him recover quickly even if he does suffer some tip burn.

Finally we have a boxwood that seems able to avoid having that stagnant, shrinking, straggly misshaped form that so many older cultivars have eventually develop in the St. Louis area from year after year of heavy pruning management.

Too many boxwoods eventually succumb to VID (Visual Iimpact Decline). This is a condition that develops from the inability for most boxwoods to grow fast enough or evenly enough to compensate from the almost annual removal of winter burned branches and the various degrees of clean up pruning needed for insect infestation control.

To his credit, Bowood ‘Green Mountain’ shows some resistance to these “ills” and issues. His dense branching and slow but even new growth in all directions makes confident clean up pruning possible since the end result is a ‘still attractive” evergreen foundation choice for most if not all year!

His youthful growth rate is comparable to his mature growth rate, fairly slow. This is a benefit once he is installed, but a testimony to the patience of nursery growers.

At time of purchase look for him to already be in a well rounded globe shape. This gives him a pleasant yet classic profile, perfect for holiday lighting ( still with at least a few shoots available for greenery trimming) His well defined ball shape also makes him an easy starter plant for teaching beginning landscapers to “visualize” the base shape and to use it a guide for pruning.

He is also less commonly available in a delightful pyramidal form. Both styles compliment a manicured landscape, however take note he is also able to adapt to a more selective pruning style that eventually reveals his naturally handsome personality! I like to see boxwoods “grown out”. Over time they can become one of the most graceful strikingly handsome shrubs in the landscape.

He grows best in a sunny to partially shaded area protected from wind with evenly moist, well-drained soil. Although his growth habit is slow, it is steady. He shows natural vigor in both upward and spreading directions so with minimal pruning, he has the potential to reach a significant size of 5-7' tall and wide!

Care Factor Rating: 3 This is a naturally compact boxwood that must be watered regularly till established. He does not require heavy pruning and performs his best went given optimal space and conditions. If allowed to grow out pruning care drops to very minimal and his primary need becomes consistant but not heavy, year round watering. He can be very drought tolerant but is not as likely to look his best. He is also somewhat deer resistant, non-invasive and a good protection option from weather and predators for small song birds. A native option with a slightly simular look is inkberry- a personal favorite!

He needs only a gentle hand for clipping to look his best. Although he is generally tolerant of pruning and shearing, it should never be done before the last spring frost date.

Hard pruning late in the summer / fall stimulates growth which is particularly susceptible to winter damage. Pruning too early in the spring also stimulates growth that may be severely damaged or killed by a late spring frost. Wait till spring frosts are no longer a danger and new growth is evident and just do a two step trimming.

The first trim, keep it gentle, trimming only to clean up winter damage and a light shaping. The second trimming can be a slightly harder prune if maintaining a certain size is the goal. Do this second shaping pruning before summer heat- probably best last week of May or first week of June.

The typically performed late summer/ fall trim becomes risky if it is more than a light tipping. Several light trimmings through the season is best. Late season hard pruning sometimes stimulates growth that is easily damaged by weather extremes!

Also be aware that boxwoods naturally have shallow roots that can dry out ANY TIME OF THE YEAR! Water regularly all year and plan to cultivate only lightly near the shrub base . Keep a light layer of bark / compost mulch ( but no more than 1-2”) year round.

Remove dead/damaged branches can be removed any time during the growing season.

Winter winds can remove moisture from leaves at a rapid rate, often resulting in dehydration. Leaf damage is evident by a range of burned appearances. This can range anywhere from a darkening or “bronzing” to a tan dry “toasted” appearance. Whatever doesn’t recover can be removed in the first of the season pruning.

(Also remember to carefully remove any heavy snow accumulations as quickly as practical. Brittle frozen stems are susceptible to stem/branch damage.)

For those interested in B. ‘Green Mountain’s’ background history, his parents are thought to be the sweet little B. sempervirens 'Suffruticosa' (female) a very dwarf compact boxwood and the larger, more manly B. sinica var. insularis (male). B. ‘Green Mountain’ clearly picked up some of the best traits of both his parents.

A few other boxwoods likely to perform well in St. Louis if properly sited are listed below with links:

Buxus semperviren 'Suffruticosa'
Buxus 'Green Velvet'
Buxus sinica var. insularis 'Winter Gem'

Saturday, November 27, 2010

KTRS Inside Out Show Plant of the Week November 27 2010


Happy Holly Days


Ilex x meserveae ‘Castle Spire’


by

MaryAnn Fink

Conservation Specialist

copyright 2010


Castle Spire is a new variety of Ilex x meserveae. This “blue holly” is reported to have good vigor for the extremes of Missouri. Although she was selected especially for her tight dense growth and her narrow upright silhouette, it is her well developed branching that catches the eye. This is a notable improvement for this type of holly!

She has an above average shape formed by her dense branching. She looks natural and balanced as she showcases her bountiful dark foliage. Her forest green complexion accentuates the brightness of her cheery red berries.

It might be tempting to bring her home to be a “one and only” because she will surely slip into even some tight spots with ease. But, resist the urge and instead consider massing her in a staggered grouping. Strategically placed along with a few other “winter showy” performers, she could easily anchor a serene snow-scape. She is pretty enough to be the featured in a living art vignette that would provide the needed structure / “bones” for a year round bird sanctuary!

Her placement is critical for maximum enjoyment! Choose your most visible location for her to be framed by your favorite window. She is furniture rearrangement worthy! Plan for maximum viewing pleasure from a warm and comfy spot!

Care Factor Rating: 1 This naturally narrow compact upright holly must be watered regularly till established. She does not require pruning when given proper space. She appreciates a gentle hand for the only occasional / random shoot trimming! Pruning at any time might affect her berry production!

Bonus tip
Design Suggestion: Consider a beautiful set of triplets in a staggered grouping end-capped with a strong Colorado blue spruce. Like a red Christmas ribbon that weaves through the grouping lace them together with several Red Twig Dogwoods ‘Cardinal’. Back-dropped all of these “pretties” with ‘Red Sprite’ and one ‘Jim Dandy’ deciduous hollies. (Hide him mostly behind the Blue Spruce since he is not so showy!)

Trim out the front edge of this winter fantasy collection with a few evergreen perennials such as Christmas fern. Finally, add a pretty bird bath. For the most wildlife friendly and natural look, consider a year round water feature, such as a phantom fountain that runs all winter with a short bird friendly creek bed!

(Use CASTLE WALL™ somewhere in the landscape as the pollinator for ‘Castle Spire’)

A Few of My Favorite Things (Can you hear me humming tune from Sound of Music?)
Castle Spire Holly Ilex x meserveae (new to me favorite)
Cornus ‘Cardinal’ Red-Twig Dogwood ( Long Time Fav)
Ilex verticillata ‘Red Sprite’ and ‘Jim Dandy’ (Deciduous Holly) (So showy-so easy)
Colorado Blue Spruce. (Picea pungens) (Ahhh)
Bird bath / water feature ( a must for me: always make wildlfe gardening a habit (tat)

Saturday, November 20, 2010

KTRS %%) INside Out Show Plant of the Week Noember 21


Beautyberry

Callicarpa dichotoma is a non-native cousin of our American Beautyberry (Callicarpa americana), qualifying it as another one of my favorite shrubs!

This pretty pastel berried relative has many cultivar names- all with the same common name of beautyberry. It is clear that good looks run in the family and a reminder of how important it is to know botanical names when searching for plants!

This beautyberry is a small stature soft stemmed fountain shaped shrub. She does stay considerably shorter that her native cousin. This is partially because of her thin “oh so nimble” canes that bow to the point of nearly touching the ground when fully burdened with fruit and full leaf.

Her canes, if pruned off at the base and laid out flat on the ground could conceivably be 5’ or longer but because of her relaxed posture, she frequently reaches a growing height under 4' tall. This does mean she extends her width by season’s end. Allow some extra room for her mature full figure. Her cascading fountain shape needs to flex comfortably to look her best!

Summer catches her making a very girly effort to dress up. She sports a repeated series of small Barbie-doll bouquets of lavender rose in her leaf axils all along her wiry stems. These are attractive to butterflies and pollinators! (She is a distant relative of lantana and verbena!)

These flowers then become her “beautyberries. Her gracefully flexed willowy branches flaunt her beaded clusters of amethyst fruit as if she is posing for a “best dressed” red carpet award!

These clusters of pastel purple berries are then chilled to perfection, deepening to vivid violet. This is accentuated first by her “oh so yellow” leaves and then by her tawny bare naked stems. Such a beauty!

These berries typically remain intact for several weeks becoming a song bird treat with minimal mess!

Care Factor Rating: 2 She must be watered regularly until established but after that she is very drought tolerant. She performs best when given a hard pruning to near ground level (leave 3-6” of growth) Do this each spring before leaf bud breaks.

She is a slow to moderate growing cane shrub like many of our best performer. This means she spreads gradually by increasing from the crown / base by producing new shoots from the base annually. This makes her a perfect choice for low hedge or part of a screen grouping. If her individual personality is to remain defined, consider limiting the basal area / spread of this shrub in early spring before the leaves develop. Beautyberry is mostly disease and pest free. Flowering and fruiting are best when several are planted together!

KTRS 550 Inside Out Show Bonus Tip Details How To Water Your Newly Planted Tree





This is my recomendations if you have just planted a decidious tree in the last week. Of course you did water at the time of installtion per my earlier instructions Now, 5-7 days after planting your tree, you will need to establish a moisture checking routine.
I did my "after planting the tree" post planting check after ourt first watering to check to see how well the water had penetrated and dispersed within the tree's root zone.
I recomend doing this within the first 24 hours since the most serious damage to roots after installation happens when the roots of the tree closest to the edge of the root ball dries down too much!
Dry roots can cause signifacant damage. Keep in mind even though there are no leaves present on your tree to use up the water, the water will drain away or be "wick away" as it saturates the surrounding soil. The surface moisture also evaporates- so there are many ways to lose root moisture so don't be surprised if your tree needs water!
In our situation we were very dry before planting so we did a 50 Count initially. We rechecked in 24 hours and did an additional 25 count watering protocal with satisfactory penetration in the root zone. ( the only way to know that is to dig down 6-8" at the mulch edge and feel the soil!)


In a perfect world, it would have been nice to have been watering the entire area all fall a minimum of 1/2-1" of water weekly this would help us balance the mosture needs faster and easier, perhaps with less water)
We are now doing a every 5 day check for the next couple of weeks to get to know our site. If the top 6-8' of the soil around the root ball is dry to the touch- we will water!
As starters we are doing a "75 Count Watering Procedure". This may reduce to 50 or even 25 depending on our weather and percipitation. We recieved less than 1/4" the other night- not enough to even count!
See the instructions below for how is how to do this!


75 Count Watering Procedure:

Counting to 75 slowly with the hose running at a moderate rate.

Starting with the stream of water close to the trunk and water in a gradually widening circle till you have watered all the way to the edge of the tree mulch edge- then reduce the circle of water size till you are back to watering near the trunk again. Do this repeatedly as you count slowly to 75. It should only take 1-2 minutes to moisten the root ball and the surrounding soil. (I prefer to remove the hose nozzel to reduce the water stream force)

Please note you will need to be watering your tree throughout the winter as needed. Also remember to disconnect your hose from your faucet between watering!

(see general guidlines posted earlier )

Sunday, November 14, 2010

KTRS 550 Inside Out Show Bonus Tip Watering Fall Planted Tree


TREE WATERING GUIDE FOR FALL PLANTED TREES

By MaryAnn Fink
Conservation Specialist
Copyright 2010

Water is the most important thing for a new tree. All plants need to be watered for at least the first full year, the first 3 summers and in times of prolong drought.


The following is a suggested guide for how to water a deciduous tree planted in the fall- particularly this fall 2010 which has been so dry! (Deciduous trees are trees that lose their leaves! Typically all leaves have been shed before planting day)

Please note that these are just my guidelines based on a few of Frisella Nursery's suggestions and with my own explainations and recommendations. Adjustments may still have to be made depending on your specific site and soil-check with me via my website if you have any questions.

PLEASE NOTE THAT ALL FALL PLANTED TREES NEED TO BE WATERED BEFORE PLANTING AND AGAIN WITHIN THE FIRST 24 HOURS OF WHEN THEY ARE PLANTED REGARDLESS OF HOW WET THE GROUND.

THIS IS TO REMOVE LARGE AIR VOIDS IN THE SURROUNDING SOIL AND BALANCE THE MOISTURE BETWEEN THE NEW SOIL and SITE AND THE ESTABLISHED ROOT BALL / ZONE.


The time between watering after the initial watering will vary depending on your soil, so checking the trees about every 5-7 days is recommended.

The best way to check is to actually dig down about 8 to 10" along the side of the root ball (or about 8-10” away from the trunk). Check the soil of the root ball at that depth; if wet do not water but go ahead and recheck again the next day,

If dry water the tree again and then keep checking the tree about every 5 days, and if slightly moist check in 7 days again. After several times of checking a schedule develops and you know about how long it takes for your tree to dry.

During the fall, the roots are still active and so still need moisture but the quantity is less than when the tree is leafing out in the spring and during the summer when it is maintaining a full canopy of leaves.

Water is naturally drains or is wicked away by the constantly changing moisture levels in the surrounding soil but the root zone will still need moisture until the roots have extended beyond the original root space. As a tree’s roots develop they become an extensive moisture collecting network. A thriving mature tree can and will compete for available moisture but it takes time to become established!


FALL PLANTING TIME IS September – December! Depends on the amount of rainfall we receive and how long the plants have been in the ground your watering will need to be customized to your site. Generally speaking the time between watering does become more spaced out as we reach the coldest part of winter time.
TIP FOR EVERYBODY: A deep watering in late in fall helps all plants go through winter by protecting them from freezing dry.


WINTER :( December - February) Watering is necessary in this time frame because we have had a dry fall. Also if we have a dry winter (sometimes we are very cold but with little snow!). If that is the case a slow watering on mild days (45 to 50 degrees) will be required!

It is not uncommon for trees planted in heavy clay to occasionally go 2 to 3 weeks between watering, especially in a “wet” fall and winter when rain and snow are plentiful and there are no leaves to be maintained.

(PLEASE ALSO NOTE THAT WATERING PROTOCAL WILL CHANGE IN THE SPRING ESPECIALLY WHEN YOUR NEW TREE IS PUSHING OUT ITS NEW LEAVES AND AGAIN WHEN THE SEASON PROGRESSES. NEVER ASSUME A TREE NEEDS OR DOESN’T NEED WATER ALWAYS CHECK. MANY TREES WILL LOOK WILTED WHEN THEY ARE TOO DRY, TOO WET, OR TOO HOT. DO NOT ASSUME THAT IT NEEDS WATER; YOU WILL HAVE TO DIG DOWN AND CHECK THE SOIL!

PLEASE NOTE: EACH TREE IS DIFFERENT AND EACH INDIVIDUAL TREE MAY USE WATER DIFFERENTLY THEN SURRONDING PLANTS, SPOT WATERING MAY BE NEEDED DURING THE GROWING SEASON FOR THE NEXT FEW YEARS!
Thank you Frisella Nursery's Adan Briagas and Morgan's newly planted Magnolia 'Shiraz' for posing for this snapshot!

Saturday, November 13, 2010

550 KTRS Inside Out Show Plant of the Week November 13 2010




by MaryAnn Fink

Conservation Specialist

copyright 2010

Vanderwolf' Pine, sometimes called Limber pine is a choice selection of a U.S. native pine found primarily at high elevations. Despite his thin air preference, he seems to be fairly adaptable to our heavier, more humid conditions and tolerant of the rocky and lean soils sometimes found in Missouri.

Although this pine could easily reach a mature size of 25-60’ in his natural conditions, he is more likely to feel the stress of our different climate and weather shifts and respond by growing more slowly and perhaps mature at 18-25’ height with half as much width.

Introduced in 1972, he is still not widely planted in Missouri. This makes it difficult to estimate any long range predictions for his cultivated life span in St. Louis, but it is safe to say it is probably much shorter than in his natural conditions. Some estimates are as much as 15 years plus or longer.

When well sited he is reported to be healthy and a very positive contributor to the landscape. He has a soft blue-green appearance at a distance but as you approach him, his beautiful two-tone needles cluster becomes apparent. This gives him the unique ability to be the transitional player between the solid blue tones of a blue spruce or the softening anchor for the emerald greens of Juniper ‘Sea Green’ or ‘Keteleeri’. For color play consider using him as the blender between several different shades of greens and blues!

P. ‘Vanderwolf’ could be the "Ambassador for Diversity" in the landscape for a new and interesting way to create an informal screen. He has a fairly straight posture but rather asymmetrical to the ground branching. This creates a naturally relaxed pose / loose screening that gives some privacy while still allowing light and air flow.

Vanderwolf' Pine will grow best in full sun and average soil. He does require good drainage and even moisture year round. (Yes –this means you will need to water on mild days during the winter) He is not tolerant of consistently or even occasionally soggy soil!

To view him growing locally, visit Missouri Botanical Garden. Also there are some nice examples at Powell Gardens in the Kansas City region, a particularly healthy one is growing near one of their trolley stops. I was so impressed with his tolerance for the nearly constant drying winds they have year round. (better than me-it can be cooling but also exhausting to be so wind whipped!) He appears to be happy there, adapting and growing well with beautiful healthy needles!

Care Factor Rating: 2 He does want to form a stabilizing taproot even at a young age so transplanting him when he is young is preferred. Follow a regular watering schedule during the first growing season to establish a deep, extensive root system. Although watering can be reduced after establishment, he will still need water during the winter and during seasonal dry periods. No pruning is recommended!
photo curtesy of Missouri Botanical Garden PlantFinder

Sunday, November 7, 2010

KTRS 550 Inside Out Show Plant of the Week November 6 2010


Nyssa sylvatica ‘Wildfire’


by MaryAnn Fink

Conservation Specialist

copyright 2010



He is the offspring of Missouri’s native Nyssa (Black gum) which has a rich heritage of a persistent population on both Missouri’s dry rocky slopes and the southern lowlands.
This natural population demonstrates the versatility needed to thrive in Missouri’s ever changing seasons, but this new cultivar also has fall color that rival the intensity of any Maple. Finnally a tree that has both native endurance and the main stream public’s desire for ornamental attributes!
This cultivar / selection is quite adaptable to the wide range of soil types typically encountered in urban situations including clay, inconsistent moisture levels and poor drainage- this make him a good choice for the average yardener. He is also likely to catch the trained designer's eye of landscape architects who demand picture pretty options. Even municipalities struggling for more "storm water friendly" choices will like his ability to “fit the bill” as a thriving filter option for long term use! (Can you say “rain gardens”?)

Although this cultivar is new to the market, it appears that N. ‘Wildfire already has his fan club! Those who love unique foliage coloration will think this handsome offspring of “Nyssa-The King of Color” will appreciate his "bonus feature": his new growth is notably red-tipped. Eventually as the growth matures it turns a wonderful shade of forest green)
Growers are already giving him rave reviews. I suppose it is only a matter of time before he will run the risk of being over planted by tree connoisseurs who have finally found the perfect tree! I admit he looks to be “the answer” for difficult sites that “must have” multi-seasonal attributes. He doesn't need pruning so he is also likely to be on the top of the list for the energy conscious as well!
He is predicted to have a tamer habit and somewhat smaller build than his wild relatives. This makes him acceptable for the smaller spaces where the common species might be crowed.
Size and growth factors do vary in climates and growing conditions. At this early point in his career, he is anticipated to have at least a slow to moderate growth rate, with the potential of reaching 20-30’ feet in 10 to 15 years. His estimated mature size seem to vary considerably depending on information sources but expect a spread less than half his height in perfect situations. His profile is frequently compared to being similar to pin oak. His lowest limbs may eventually need to be removed for street clearance, depending on the tree and the site situation.
N. ‘Wildfire’ certainly has a flair for color but he also has his parent’s straight upright form so he can play the role of a featured specimen in a formal setting or be used in casual landscape. He is actually so good looking, that he perfect whenever more is better!He is also the “new option” for edging the transition zone into an existing tree community. Consider planting your own woodland sanctuary with him as a main component. He is as truly as handsome as he is versatile!

He does produce rather small, greenish-white flowers that most consider " insignificant." Both male and female flowers are present on the same tree but only the female blossoms become nectar-packed energy drinks for our important beneficial pollinators. If ideal Midwest weather occurs, these modest little flowers are replaced by small persistent energy snack fruits that are attractive to song birds. This makes him perfect for both urban situations , municipal park use and habitat freindly green spaces.
Care Factor Rating: 1 He must be watered regularly till established. He has a naturally straight trunk that supports well balanced, well spaced and angled branching so minimal pruning if any is needed! Remove only the occasional damaged or dead branch) N. 'Wildfire' also appears to be less susceptible to leaf spot.
image curtesty of Missouri Botanical Garden

Saturday, October 30, 2010

KTRS 550 Inside Out Show Plant of the Week October 30 2010


Ilex verticillata’ Nana’ (but also fondly known as ‘Red Sprite’)


by MaryAnn Fink

Conservation Specialist

copyright 2010

This is a well rounded small slow growing female shrub that is truly an easy addition to the landscape and a real end of season show off! Although her common name winterberry is easy to remember, it is important to note her profuse red berries are extremely attractive in fall AND winter, (perhaps we should start a renaming campaign for Fallberry! Never mind, I am tired of all campaigning!!!!)

Her most notable feature is the way her framework is truly berry “laden.” It is hard to imagine how so many berries can develop so close together! Her simple green leaves are very pleasant but they are easily forgotten once they slip to the ground exposing her “berry nice” branches. She is truly worth remembering!

She is never a messy shrub. Her berries remain intact and attractive well after the winter holidays. Eventually after several freeze / thaw cycles, the berries become a slightly softened treat for hungry song birds.

Ilex verticillata’ is a perfect choice for foundation planting or low hedging. Place her where ever compact mature height is a consideration but maximum impact is a necessity!

She is a selection of our Missouri native holly, so she is happy with average soil and variable moisture levels. This deciduous holly (remember this means she drops her leaves) naturally tolerates sites with drainage issues. Choose her where “pretty” is important, habitat friendly is desirable and where soil erosion might become a problem. She is perfect for rain gardens, but she is also fairly drought tolerant, once establish!

She does produce flowers but they are relatively inconspicuous to everyone except her male companion I. ‘Jim Dandy. He needs to be planted near by to insure good pollination and profuse berry production. Generally only one male winterberry is needed for pollinating 9-10 female 'Nana' plants.

Care Factor Rating: 2 Winterberry must be watered regularly till established. She does not require pruning when given adequate space! Flowers and berries develop on the new growth so gently prune her to shape in the early spring before new growth appears. Never ever remove more than 1/3 of the total growth on any shrub. at any time! (If you are having to do this- you have a misplaced shrub!) Otherwise remove only the occasional damaged or dead branch any time of the year.

This is a cane shrub that spreads by increasing from the crown / base by producing new shoots from the base annually. This makes her a perfect choice for hedge use or screening. If her individual personality is to remain defined, consider limiting the basal area / spread of this shrub in early spring before the leaves develop. In drier garden soils, she tends to form a tight well defined clump with some basal sprouting that can easily be removed at pruning time.

There are many hybrid cultivars and normal genetic variation available on the market today and more being introduced every year so be sure to do some research and check with local experts for cultural details for this area ! This plant can range in heights from 3 feet to15 feet depending on specific selections. The width of the plant is also variable.

Here are some of my other favorite cultivars. I have included their links:

Ilex 'Sparkleberry' - winterberryIlex verticillata - winterberryIlex verticillata 'Afterglow' - winterberryIlex verticillata 'Cacapon' - winterberryIlex verticillata 'Maryland Beauty' - winterberryIlex verticillata 'Nana' RED SPRITE - winterberry Plant of Merit Ilex verticillata 'Spriber' BERRY NICE - winterberryIlex verticillata 'Winter Gold' - winterberryIlex verticillata 'Winter Red' - winterberry


image curtesy of Missouri Botanical Garden PlantFinder

Saturday, October 23, 2010

KTRS 550 Inside Out Show Plant of the Week Saturday October 23 2010 ITEA HENRY'S GARNET

by MaryAnn Fink
Conservation Specialist
copyright 2010



This is a cultivar of the Missouri native, Sweetspire. He is a hardy well rounded adaptable shrub that is native to many states. He is notable for his significant flower display and fragrant sweet honey-like scent. Itea is most impressive in the landscape when he reaches his mature height of 3-4' .

He has many pleasant features. His simple leaf shape and forest green foliage is naturally attractive even when there is the frequent seasonal extremes. The fact that his greenery remains clean and disease free, creates a perfect backdrop for his sweet, tickle my chin clusters of starry fragrant flowers in early summer as well as a perfect canvas to display Autumn’s full color palate. Itea ends the season with a strong finish in deep jewel tones of garnet, hence the name!

The bonus feature is the leaves remain intact till late fall –sometimes even early winter! This is much longer than many other deciduous shrubs, including burning bush! This particular cultivar selection I. ‘Henry’s Garnet’ is touted to have superior fall color than the straight species.

Itea is easy to grow in average soil and conditions. This includes medium to wet, well-drained soil. He grows best in full sun but is very adaptable to light shade conditions. Lower lighting may cause fall color to be slightly less intense or delayed . Flowering is impacted some with lower light levels and extremely dry conditions.

I. ‘Henry’s Garnet’ is a great hedge or transitional choice for a formal landscape that need to "relax a little" as it nears its perimeters. His multi-season casual good looks are also a plus when used as a foundation plant or featured shrub in easy care landscapes, woodland gardens or even green spaces that are focused on butterfly and habitating. Itea is especially nice at the edge of ponds or as the mainstay in rain garden designs.

Care factor Rating: 2 No deadheading is necessary after flowering unless personal preference. Reseeding is not an issue. Maintain moisture levels is necessary while establishing, but he is drought tolerant once well establish (flower and color are best when given adequate moisture) He does like to spread outward from his base, but he is controllable and well mannered when given boundaries.

This is a cane shrub that spreads by increasing from the crown / base by producing new shoots from the base annually. If his individual personality is to remain defined, once he is established, the basal area’s spread can be limited to the desired space in early spring.

Remove any excess shoots with a pruning saw and then cut around the base with a sharp shovel and remove any excess root and woody material. Replace-refill any hole area created with fresh soil to protect the exposed freshly cut roots. This activity will control the gradual but natural expansion of the primary clump. Maintaining base area spread for each individual shrub to a minimum of 2-3 feet wide will permit the individual shrub to remain visually balanced by keeping the height and width somewhat equal. If a continuous hedge desired- only limit the side borders.

Since the Itea’s tendency to colonize, consider establishing a few very choice well placed specimens as stock plants / parents and use the removed new growth as babies/ /pups for developing other areas in landscape ( or as nice give-a ways for friends)


Image curtesy of Missouri Botanical Garden PlantFinder

Friday, October 22, 2010

Sharing A Time of Thankfulness and Blessings


I am not sure who here on earth keeps track of all our losses- especially recently with losing my baby sister Joanne last year and my only brother John last month, but this week I also celebrated Rachael's life- in my womb and my heart.


It is a precious time each year when I very consciously think about the private importance of her in my life 29 years ago. We lost her at 41 weeks, less than a month before our 1st wedding anniversary. I never experienced such grief before, it is different but similar in some ways to the way I am experiencing my personal loss of Joanne.


All of my immediate family commemorates this time differently, I am blessed with phone calls from family and special friends like Angie who also experienced the loss of a baby and a special intimacy with Michael who carries his heart pain quietly.


This year I want my adult children to know I pray for them daily. I have been spending precious little time with all of them these days as they hurry through life. I am blessed to be a grandparent for the first time because of my youngest daughter Holly. As she experiences the gift of life and joy of parenting for the first time, I reflected back with her about this unique loss of our beautiful and perfect baby, Rachael-her sister, this made it a new experience for me.


It was no coincidence that Focus on the Family, one of my favorite Christian radio shows that broadcasts at 7am--just when my alarm clock goes on in the morning gave me strength. They were featuring Amy and Todd Smith (singing group: Selah) Although they were sharing a much more recent loss, I felt like I knew exactly they way they felt about their baby except I felt it all in the last two days of my pregnancy.


As the show ended today they ended with this song written about their little girl-finally my feelings have words and a melody! Here are the lyrics, the link to the song and to the broadcasts-I am so blessed!


I Will Carry You


There were photographs I wanted to take
Things I wanted to show you
Sing sweet lullabies, wipe your teary eyes
Who could love you like this
People say that I am brave but I'm not
Truth is I'm barely hanging on
But there's a greater story
Written long before me
Because He loves you like this
So I will carry you
While your heart beats here
Long beyond the empty cradle
Through the coming years
I will carry youAll my life
And I will praise the One Who's chosen me
To carry youSuch a short time
Such a long roadAll this madness
But I knowThat the silence
Has brought me to His voice
And He says...
I've shown her photographs of time beginning
Walked her through the parted seas
Angel lullabies, no more teary eyes
Who could love her like this
I will carry you
While your heart beats here
Long beyond the empty cradle
Through the coming yearsI will carry you
All your life
And I will praise the One Who's chosen Me
To carry you

Saturday, October 16, 2010

KTRS 550 Inside Out Show PLant of the Week October 16 2010


by MaryAnn Fink
Conservation Specialist
copyright 2010


Ginkgo biloba 'Autumn Gold' is a selection of my favorite and easiest to identify tree. He is classified as a deciduous (leaf dropping) conifer (a true gymnosperm).

His distinct, double-lobed, fan-shaped leaves form a well distributed canopy throughout his beautiful almost symmetrical branching. His posture is tall, upright, lean, and strong. His demeanor is proud as if he is aware of the importance of his survivorship since prehistoric times.

'Autumn Gold' is a male cultivar that grows at a moderate rate in his youth but like many of us slows down with age. He is likely to reach his mature height of 35-40' before the inevitable but endearing widening to his mature yet pleasing 20-30’ spread!

His foliage signals the onset of autumn, with a blast of gold that gleams like a well polished French horn. In the forefront of a clear blue cloudless sky, this gingko plays a spectacular solo or blends as needed in a well orchestrated landscape!

The leaves tend to persist and then as if taking a bow, they all drop to the ground in one collective movement. The result is a round of applause from the audience- (at least me) and the ground gracefully and abundantly littered in foliage “show tickets” in the same regal gold!

Care factor rating: 1 This tree was selected for his great representation of this notable fall color trait, but like all Ginkgos, he is easy to grow in average soil in full sun with moist, but well-drained alkaline or acidic soils. He will tolerate compacted clay but not overly soggy soils. All Ginkgos are also tolerant of saline conditions, air pollution and heat.

Saturday, October 9, 2010

KTRS 550 Inside Out Show Plant of the Week Saturday October 9 2010 Hydrangea paniculata 'Quick Fire'

by MaryAnn Fink
Conservation Specialist
copyright 2010



Hydrangea paniculata is a group of the genus Hydrangea that blooms reliably on new wood. Regardless of cold or soil pH, this valuable family in this huge genus performs from summer to fall - every year!

Though I am most familiar and very fond of several members of this plant family, I am especially excited about getting to know this new boy in training (He can be seen as a shrub, but I checked him out at Rolling Ridge Nursery, where he has been successfully trained into a tree form). This charmer goes by H. ‘Quick Fire’ but in more familiar circles, he is also known as H. ‘Bulk’. I see why!

He is impressively eager to catch any onlooker’s eye with his big bold, muscular foliage. He has strong sturdy branching that forms the support system for his cherry red new stem growth, well rounded thick leaves and large casually held flower clusters. He holds himself together primarily upright and apparently effortlessly!

He works himself into a lather of soft vanilla cream blossoms a month earlier than any of his siblings! By the time other hydrangeas are begin to flower, he is already sporting his post work-out flush of deep rose that drenches every petal and last well into autumn! (This is when his foliage also puts out an effort to reflect the seasonal color change -he is absolutely handsome!)

Care factor rating 1 Hydrangea paniculata ‘Quick Fire’ thrives in urban conditions. His blooms occur on current season’s growth, so prune only once in late winter to early spring to remove last years faded blossoms. This is a very hardy selection that blooms reliably every year, no matter where you live, how you prune or what the pH. There is absolutely no fussing or guessing like with other Hydrangea!
Read more: http://www.colorchoiceplants.com/quick_fire.htm#ixzz12jtJRMtE

Wednesday, September 29, 2010

KTRS 550 Inside Out Show Featured Plant of the Week Nine Reasons To Plant NINEBARK

by MaryAnn Fink
Conservation Specialist
copyright 2010


1) Ninebark ‘Center Glow’ has American Heritage
2) Doesn’t need irrigation (once established

3) Looks great without pruning (more time to have fun)

4) Shrugs off summer heat and winter cold (wish I could say the same)

5) It likes Missouri clay soils (thank heavens we have so many plants that like it here)

6) It has a wide range pH tolerance ( stop the uphill battle-accept what we have)

7) Amazing foliage and great fall color ( that holds up spring till autumn - not like the old gold ninebark cultivars with thin leaf foliaged that wore out before it fell off)

8) Barbie doll bouquets of “blush” white flowers (nice size for individual plate floral arrangements!)

9) Non-messy dry fruit-seed heads loved by birds ( and not hated by my husband)

PLUS A FEW MORE

10) Beautiful dark stems in winter (that eventually develops a sexy strip act-good, mine is too hormonal and heat flash related- not meant for viewing!)

11) Butterflies like the flowers (and I like butterflies AND flowers-imagine that)
Wet and/or Dry- It can be used in rain gardens that dry up in the summer (just wondering if anyone has had to water their rain garden THIS year?)

12)Not preferred by or significantly phased by occasional deer or rabbit browsing (apparently this is like my cooking- available but seldom selected as an option)

13) Recovers well from amateur pruning efforts (I know this from personal experience-I did move but not especially because of my husband’s poor pruning technique on THIS plant)

My favorite Ninebark is Physocarpus ‘Center Glow’ ((P.o.’Centre Glow’is spelled both ways) He originates from our wonderful American Beauty Physocarpus opulifolius which thrives in the lower Midwest.
His foliage begins its show of color when the first leaves unfurl displaying a striking green gold. The burgundy color migrates from the outside edge of the leaves inward toward the heart of the leaf, stopping instinctively as if Mother Nature has given an invisible paintbrush her nod, leaving the characteristic center of the leaf a bright gold.
Growing with vigor, P. ‘Center Glow’ repeats the coloring process as new leaves continue to emerge and the first leaf’s color deepens with age. All season this shrub has a constant dynamic appeal that increases as autumn arrives. The leaves take on an extremely bright scarlet color and remain intact till late fall. Eventually they slip to the ground, revealing dark red-black mahogany and gray branches.
Over time, P. ‘Center Glow’ shrugs off layers of his thin skinned bark, allowing the wind to think, it has won- but it didn’t! The real winners are the homeowner and landscapers that use this selection of ninebark in their most "has to be good" primo site locations!
copyright 2010 / MaryAnn Fink
['Center Glow' was bred by Harold Pellett, executive director of the nonprofit Landscape Plant Development Center in Mound, Minn. He is a committed and passionate plantsman. He cares greatly about “every day pretty”, our environment, sustainability and the ornamental value of horticulture to a community, and all its residents.] photo by Landscape Plant Development Center

Saturday, September 11, 2010

KTRS 550 Inside Out Show Saturday September 11 Plant of the Week Salvia azurea



(For Fall turf renovations see Friday's blog!)

Salvia azurea

by MaryAnn Fink

Conservation Specialist

copyright 2010

Missouri native Salvia azurea is also known as Azure Blue Sage or Pitcher sage. He is an easy to grow perennial for a sunny location with average soil.
In the wild he can stretch up to 4-5’’, but with a little well timed grooming he is a stout, 2 ½’ -3’ tall profuse fall bloomer with wonderful manners!

Our Native Azure Blue Sage is a striking plant occurring naturally on limestone glades, rocky prairies, and prairie openings. He prefers slightly moist, gravelly or sandy soils with good drainage-never soggy feet!

His whorls of 2-lipped blossoms are densely dispersed along the uppermost portion of his multiple stems. This creates an equal opportunity for every crystal blue flower to be seen and appreciated!

Care Factor Rating: 3 Care for this sage is similar to mum and aster care. Once his growth is active and about 10-12” tall (usually late spring), trim his new growth back to about 6”tall.

"Tip trim” the new shoots a second time late June / first week of July (2-3”off each branch is enough!) This promotes lateral branching, heavier flowering and wonderful compact growth! (this will also delay flowering slightly)

Trim this sage lightly after flowering to redirect the energy from producing seeds to stimulating more root growth!

With gentle pre-bloom pruning, he tends to bloom late in the summer well into fall. He tolerates drought but blooms longest when not overly drought stressed. Remove spent flower spikes to help extend the bloom period.

Warning: Do not remove the last year’s shrubby stems till new growth is clearly evident (early to mid-spring). Also do not cut back any re-growth or any new stems any closer than 3-4” above ground at this first pruning!


Side Note: We also discussed another favorite blue flowering fall bloomer Caryopteris-also known as Blue mist spirea or bluebeard. There are many cultivars on the market. A tried and true is Caryopteris x clandonensis 'Longwood Blue' - other new ones have been introduced are are probably equally wonderful and always a pollinator's freind!

Friday, September 10, 2010

KTRS Inside Out Show for weekend of Saturday September 11 FALL TURF RENOVATION PROCEDURE

by MaryAnn Fink
Conservation Specialist
copyright 2010

This week's Inside Out show show will be a short 2 hour program so talk time will be at a premium.

I will still have a plant of the week but also in response to the interest in lawn renovation and weed problems, I am posting the advice of MY favorite St. Louis TURF Expert, Glenn Kraemer- with some comments of my own.

I also included his contact information because I believe every situation is unique and he is best suited to help with specific problems.

These are the guidlines I followed while managing the turf area in the Bird Garden at the MoBot's Kemper Center for Home Gardening- It looked fabulous during the time I worked with Glenn to create a more eco-freindly routine.

In a short time, the weeds were gone, the chemical use was reduced by more than 85% and supplemental water appplications by more than 50%. IN short it is almost alwasy possible to make positive environmental changes in how you care for your lawn!



Step by Step Fall Renovation Plan for Cool Season Grass by Missouri Botanical Garden’s Turf Educator Glenn Kraemer with MaryAnn Fink’s commentary!

The best time for fall turf renovation starts with weed control in mid to late Aug, Turf seeding begins in early September- and the ultimate goal is to finish all steps including three mowings before mid-late October!

Decide if broad leaf weeds (as in not “grass like” foliage) are a problem- if so a post emergent herbicide spray may be necessary- apply per label’s instructions. Be sure the final application is two weeks prior to seeding! Use Turflon Ester for violets and ground ivy, Trimec for all other broadleafs. Sprays only. Be sure to read the labels!

If you are trying to control nut sedge with Sedge Hammer or Pro-Sedge-there must also be a two week interval between the last treatment of the sedge product and the seeding or reseeding effort! Always follow product directions as stated on the label. Be aware that heavy a infestation of nutsedge or long established mature nutsedge (nutsedge is maturing when it begins developing their spiky seed heads) may require more than one application of control product!

Remove any leaves or sticks and spread a thin layer of top soil to level any areas as needed.

After dropping mower blade to 2” height-mow grass- and then reset mower back to 31/2” mow height ( do this so that you don’t mow that low again till late October when you do your final cut! You want your grass to have grown well enough to need at least three mowing before cold weather sets in so it is mature enough to withstand winter)

Flag all irrigation heads and utilities that can be damaged by machinery!

Power rake and / or core aereate-you can’t aererate too much! Using both machines is best but expensive! Rake up and remove thatch- any healthy turf that remains intact- leave it intact. Grass debris can be composted or disposed of with yard waste/ trimmings.

Spread first the seed (make sure it is fresh and premium quality blend of turf fescue-I prefer not to use any annual or perennial blue grass or rye grass mixes- consult with Glenn for his seed recommendations for your specific site)

Spread the seed starter fertilizer (not all fertilizers are compatible with seeding-check the label. Some fertilizers are too strong and some have pre-emmergents added- both will interfere with starting a new lawn or renovating a lawn).

Power rake or use a leaf rake and re-rake the entire area again! This incorporates the seed lightly. Don’t try to bury it! This rate procedure will insure good seed to soil contact and will also help prevent the grass seed from washing away. This also decreases the grass seed’s visability from scrounging birds. Do NOT use straw which is filled with all types of viable –ready to grow the minute you turn your back, weed seeds!!!!!!

If an area is complete bare of any turf, or very thinly populated with grass, top dress (spread thinly) the seeds and soil with a thin layer of peat moss, finely grated soil or Penn Mulch (available thru G.R. Robinson’s seed company) I have used the left over thatch material I had raked up with various degrees of success- it frequently clumps too heavily and suffocates the grass seed) DO NOT USE STRAW-ALL TURF PROFESSIONALS KNOW NOT TO USE STRAW!!!!!!!! Only incompetents or people who don’t care about the end result use straw!

Water the soon to be the most beautiful lawn enough to keep the top ½” of soil moist for 2-3 weeks. You will have to water every day and some days perhaps twice- drying out is fatal to grass seed- and so watering so much that there are puddles!!! Avoid heavy watering, infrequent watering and beware of creating puddles! The goal is evenly moist not wet/dry or soggy!

Between the second and third week, mow the entire grass area with the mow blade set at 31/2” height –bag the clippings. Bagging is necessary to help prevent smothering the new baby grass.

After the second mowing, start watering more deeply but water just every 3-4 days.

If weeds start sprout up- (and they might-weed seeds live in the soil a long time waiting for the first chance they get to take hold) Do not apply any herbicide (weed killers) until you have mowed the grass at least 3-4 times. By then it may be too cool for effective control of weeds-READ THE LABEL! Fall is a great time to control weeds but it also the best time to grow a thick strong turf which is the BEST control for decreasing weeds next spring!!

If you are having a lot of leaves falling on the new grass don’t let them accumulate for more than 2-3 days. Blow them off with a leaf blower or cut the grass at the 31/2 “ mowing height with a bagger. Leaves will smother out the new grass!

Thanks to Glenn Kraemer , GR Robinson Seed Company, 8674 Olive Street, 63132, (314) 432-0300 for his input, his love of turf and the quality turf products he provides to both the horticulture industry and retail customers. Please call Glenn for any additional information, grass seed or turf products!

Saturday, August 28, 2010

KTRS 550 Inside Out Show Plant of the Week Saturday Auguest 28, 2010 Showy Goldenrod (Solidago speciosa)

by MaryAnn Fink
Conservation Specialist
copyright 2010



Showy goldenrod is a very showy Missouri native that grows well in average to poor soil with almost no extra watering beyond rainfall!


She has a fairly tight and upright habit that hold the multiple clusters of tiny, bright flowers. These flower wands sway gently in the breeze as if keeping rhythm to a song only she can hear!


Her bloom time typically occurs just as summer transitions into fall, when fall blooming anemone and early blooming asters are just starting to flower. This makes her an indispensable color companion! Her starry flowers are the same for early blooming asters.


Goldenrods have been wrongly accused of causing hay fever which is actually an allergic reaction to wind-borne pollen from other plants such as ragweed.


She is attractive to bees, butterflies and the beautiful little goldfinches!
Showy Goldenrod can easily be distinguished from other goldenrods by the following characteristics: the flower cluster is quite large once the plat is established. The flower clusters are held fairly erect or might have a slight tilt or upward curve unlike the aggressive weedy Canada goldenrod which bends outward and downward.


Care Factor Rating 2 During spring clean-up cut back all the old foliage from last year and then cut around the crown and through the roots like you are cutting a cake away from it's pan. Remove any roots or crown portions that have stretched beyond the designated space for this plant. Remove spent flower clusters to encourage additional bloom.


Additional Tips: Another favorite goldenrod is Plant of Merit Solidago 'Fireworks'. There are many cultivars available allowing different choice of form and flower time!


SIDE NOTE: For listeners and John Shea excited about my favorite butterfly attractor/ late season flowering tree; Seven-Son Flower / Hepticodium- it is now flowering at Creve Cour Sail boat Cove's BENCH Garden. In my homescape the butterflies are gathering on it in mass!

Saturday, August 21, 2010

KTRS Inside Out Show Plant of the Week Saturday August 21


Live Forever Sedum Blessed With New Latin Name, New Cultivar, AND New Fans!
by MaryAnn Fink
Conservation Specialist
copyright 2010

Hylotelephium 'Thundercloud' is in fact the sedum to be on the watch for!

This newly introduced Sedum ‘Thundercloud’ is arriving on the nursery scene in a cloud of name confusion.

Yes the name game is still being played! The familiar upright sedum frequently known as live forever is officially known now botanically as Hylotelephium.

To add to the confusion, one of the newest introductions, H. ‘Thundercloud’ has a name that might sound less than desirable unless you need rain!

He does seem like a totally new type of sedum. He hints of the familiar simple and old fashioned good looks this plant is known for because he has the same easy going ways. His needs are minimal. Just give him full sun, occasional water and average soil.
What is different is a fancier edge to the leaf and a new look of abundance is forecast with this ‘Thundercloud’ with the heavy onset of hundreds flower buds.

The pending event is so evident I can only guess it was the inspiration for the name ‘Thundercloud’. And just as one might gaze toward the skyline to predict the timing for a rain fall, I found myself checking this plant to see just when in late August or September he was going to break into flower! And when he does-Wow!

Hardly a gray or gloomy mood is possible when looking at this fresh white bundle of florets! A smile is the only option and butterflies agree!

Care Factor Rating: 1 This is a relatively low maintenance perennial, and is best cleaned up in early spring before he begins active growth for the season. New as this cultivar is, it is not obvious if he will need frequent dividing like his relatives. Most of them do best when divided every other spring. From the looks of his habit- I am thinking this will not be as frequent and therefore he will be very low care!

For more information : http://www.greenroofs.com/content/apr-IPG-072309.htm

Wednesday, August 11, 2010

550 KTRS Inside Out Show Bonus Tips

by MaryAnn Fink
Conservation Specialist
copyright 2010



Whether discussing trees, shrubs or perennials or even annuals, “how far apart” and “how many plants” are difficult questions to answer.

This is because the install size, the eventual size, the long term goal and time frame (redo’s are expensive but an option) are factors in the process. Even your hardiness zone, rate of growth, most successful transplant size, site situation and care/pruning budget need to be considered along with your personal taste and purpose. No point in growing berry producing shrubs for the birds if they have to be pruned so often they don’t get fruit!

Tight plant spacing may result in quick fill in, which may help decrease weedy opportunists and hide or shade the soil, but close spacing is expensive!

Besides the expense of multiple plants, after a while, crowed trees and shrubs begin to interfere with each other’s development above and below ground. Completion for moisture, nutrients and even sunlight can lead to stunted growth and unnatural growth habit.

Following Best Management Practice spacing guidelines might look sparse, but this will not last long. To avoid that initial sparse look, plant some short lived perennials and some annuals for the first few years. This will allow for grow in time without the expense of over-planting and subsequent thinning.



Consider plant arrangements that are suitable now and will look good in 10-15 years or longer. When putting your design to paper find the template that approximates the scaled diameter of the mature plant and draw in the circle at two-thirds of their listed mature size. There are two reasons for this; first, some plants such as trees may never reach their listed size in our tough zone second, especially for shrub plantings, I do not want to try and keep them under size by more than one third of their potential mature size, this will hopefully allow for habit to develop-who wants green meatballs?



Finally, please avoid rain shadow problems by placing foundation plants far enough from the house and its overhang so that there is adequate air circulation, good soil perco;ation and of course beneficial rainfall. A general rule of thumb is to space plants from the house by at least the distance of the plant radius at maturity. Complex or overcrowded designs usually will require more maintenance!

Contact me for additional advice and check out these links for more information:

trees and shrubs too close together Correct Spacing for Landscape Trees and Shrubs: Examples of Planting Distances Between Familiar Woody Ornamentals
Rules of thumb for volume:
overcrowded designs

Read more: How to Select Bushes & Shrubbery eHow.com http://www.ehow.com/how_5824301_select-bushes-shrubbery.html#ixzz0wKCQwWZA

Monday, August 9, 2010

KTRS 550 Inside Out Show Bonus Blog -answer to "Giant Dragon Flyish bug in my garage"

by MaryAnn Fink
Conservation Specialist
copyright 2010



What is buggin Jim : Caller inquired about giant dragon flyish looking insect-not near water-flying into his garage- here is a possible answer!)





Cicada killers (Sphecius speciosus) are related to mud daubers or dirt daubers on the wasp family tree. They average greater than one inch in length and are recognized by their amber-colored wings and yellow/orange/black bodies. Cicada killers' size leads one to believe that they are aggressive and dangerous. They are frequently seen zooming around just above the grass or soil and sometimes they are observed crashing into windows.



These patrolling behaviors are exhibited by the male cicada killer. Males patrol territories for females and will chase other males away; hence the window-crashing behavior when they see their reflection. Above all of this, male cicada killers do not possess a stinger and, therefore, cannot sting.


For more information click here!

Saturday, August 7, 2010

550 KTRS Inside Out Show Saturday August 7 2010


Anemone x hybrida 'Honorine Jobert'
by MaryAnn Fink
Conservation Specialist
copyright 2010


This late summer blooming anemone is a cultivar, fairly representative of the many selections now available in the nursery trade. Some of the newer varieties may display a more upright habit or longer bloom period however new introductions may forfeit some hardiness or disease resistance.

Jobert’s china white flowers are propped cheerfully over her mounded foliage on leaf bare pole like stems, reminiscent of a balancing act done with fragile plates. Unlike such an act, this display of talent last for several weeks and combines well with other late season acts. The flowers will eventually shatter on their but not before entertaining a lingering audience.
She is reported to be deer resistant and attractive to the butterfly population-bonuses all around!

Care Factor Rating: 2 Every spring remove the old foliage from last year and mark area in some way to avoid disturbance until new growth is evident, a ring of small rocks works well! Once new foliage appears, determine the desired dedicated space and perform the standard root pruning procedure for perennials. This is an easy control method that also stimulated a tight growth habit. In a perfect situation this perennial may require this treatment twice a season—raising the CFR to 3- this is not probable but possible. An occasional root sprout near the designated space is more likely to appear if managment has been ignored-do not skip root pruning or else short runners may develop.

STANDARD ROOT PRUNING FOR VIGOROUS PERENNIALS: Cut around the crown and through the roots like you are cutting a cake away from a pan. Remove all the cut away crown portions and the roots that have stretched beyond the designated space for this plant. Continue to monitor during growing season and repeat if necessary. Root pruning when in bud or flower can interfere with bloom cycle.
(photo credit Missouri Botanical Garden PlantFinder)

Wednesday, August 4, 2010

KTRS 550 Inside Out Show -EXTRA NUTSEDGE HELP!

by MaryAnn Fink
Conservation Specialist
copyright 2010



Nutsedge (a.k.a. nutgrass or watergrass) is the fast growing “grass” sprouting up in lawns all around the St. Louis region.

It grows faster than any turf so a few days after cutting your lawn-it looks like you missed a section or even a week.

The glossy foliage looks like grass with a folded crease down the center. It occasionally grows so fast it reaches to the seed forming stage. It then produces and a tight cluster of brownish green aging to brown thin needle-like seeds that rest at the top of the leaf blades.

If pulled from the stem, the underground nutlets usually disconnect and begin producing the next plant. Many nutlets can form- hence the control problem with pulling by hand!

Although it makes some sense to use an effective spray, it needs to be the correct product, done effectively. Timing is critical. Go to your nearest landscape or garden center for the correct information and product. I have asked Glenn Kraemer of GR Robinson Seed for his best recomendation. While waithing for his responce I decided to share his contact information-for those of you who need immeadiate help!


Gr Robinson Seed Company
(314) 432-0300
8674 Olive Blvd, St Louis, MO 63132 Get directions

I will post more info shortly and some links to help you manage this problem along with some other “weed” links! In the mean time –don’t feel alone- you are NOT!

When using any chemical, always read the label and follow the directions (don't try to mix a stronger, more is not always better! Also don't buy more than you need and follow storage information for any product!

Tuesday, August 3, 2010

KTRS 550 INSIDE OUT SHOW EXTRA: MY SPEAKENESE WHAT IS MARYANN TALKING ABOUT?



COMMUNICATION; MY FAVORITE WORDS/ DESCRIPTIONS DEFINED (THIS IS NOT A RANT-PLEASE READ ON-AND ENJOY! )



by MaryAnn Fink
Conservation Specialist
copyright 2010


Colorculture/ Colorculturalist: A person such as myself who focuses on the embellishment of the landscape by using the color of flowering plants and foliage as major design tool. A horticulturist that is focused on adding the color that the main stream public says they want!

The Naturalista: a person-such as my self who appreciates the ”natural” look but offers it a “hand” through design technique and plant selection to help its visual appeal reach out to the main stream public. The Naturalista is always interested in making environmental education usable information for the end user!

Intentional Greenscaping: focusing on the purpose and function while factoring in ways to maximize a green space’s potential to both serve a function and be esthetically pleasing-max potential / most eye candy bang for the buck yet sustainable!

The New American Garden Artist: This stylized design uses the natural beauty of the native plant palette to create a recognizable complimentary composition that can be reasonably cared for and remain sustainable .

Monet Effect: saturating color in the garden but allowing for imperfections and an ebb and flow effect, massing, fading and blurring within the perimeters of a natural site line.

Moment in the Garden- a snapshot of when we pause long enough to let the crowds and the manmade sounds diminish and the urge to scurry diminish.

Native Boutique Garden - a gathering or collection of native plants that create a very concentrated effect that could possibly happen naturally but I haven’t seen it!

An Intentional Garden: A garden that has a clear, strong voice-obvious passion- based on the basics with human inspiration. Purposeful but not overly contrived/ the power of the natural landscape without being wayward-but still untamed. This type of garden has wild at heart beauty that says “accessible” a garden that invites interactive experience.

An Intentional Garden accentuates her assets. It is easy to appreciate her shapely lines-like a beautiful woman-she is engaging; she evokes a nurturing feeling in the onlooker. Her undertone and overtone is truthful, captivating. She elevates whoever she calls to a heighten awareness. Her natural inspired influence engages-forever changed. She beckons you with her sounds, begs to be touched and only wants to be. She can share a heartfelt moment or a lifetime.

An Intentional Garden brings it- the feel; even a mood- creates a relationship between the caretaker and the space. A budding love or maybe Love at first site!

Love at first site! Irrisistable -memorable moment when I first look at a landscape and imagine its possibilities! My Favorite gardens, thankyou to a few of my fav's Matt and Lisa-Oma's Barn, Dave Guempel, Mary Harrison, June Hutson and Dianne O'Connell!

Birthright landscape- born on site, elementary, stylized but recognizable.


Sanctuary / Habitat Garden: A place that invites wildlife and memories and private moments to pray and meditate - Planned seating is essential as are intimate vignettes. My favorite type of garden!

Bridge gardening: the trifecta of gardening, striving for a perfect balance, a threefer, the human element with the natural world and the spiritual realm: reaching for Eden- developing a space that encourages a walk in the garden with God!

Garden Prayer Work: Garden project-chores used to open up internal communications particularly with God. (Sometimes it turns external and you find yourself talking to a passerby in the truest purest voice- straight from your heart. When considering the gardening activity, its worth and myself, it find it a uniquely interactive time with God on a personal level that is open and comfortable- the best garden activity is one that you can slip into, while you explore your thoughts.

This is when I am most inspired to write my garden blessings / prayers. The work part is only in the application or intent –clearing your mind of trivial issues, bringing up the deepest feelings and putting them into a voice and talking to God. Suddenly it is meaningful on a spiritual level and near the end of the activity I find myself renewed.

E-harmony : Horticulturaly speaking it is environmental matchmaking. It is creating a marriage of site and soul worthy of growing together. A willing exchange, for me a vow filled with passion I can’t explain. E-harmony creates a healing place for the wounded, a memory connection to the past and path to the future and most importantly a resting place for now. E-harmony is dynamic. It is a conduit for energy between the garden and the gardener that connects all you circuits, stimulates the senses and hints of what the future relationship can become as it grows!

A Natural Habitat Garden: A Connection- not a documentary- not meant to devalue or demoralize a space. It is knit together, not fully random but a tapestry of corridors and patchwork that is sewn together by Nature and its caretaker.

A first step garden / door step garden: Welcomes you HOME or into gardening particularly with natives, the familiar, the mascots, a positive reminder of the positive aspects that impact us enough to recognize it represents where we live.

Good Neighbor Garden: A combination of natives and compatible –non-invasive plant selections that are appropriately selected for the site, environmentally friendly and functional as well as aesthetically pleasing.

Anywhere, USA Gardening: Total disregard for indigenous plants, may include invasive, and tropicals – not necessarily hardy or appropriate plant use for the site and sense of place. Anywhere, USA Gardening is not as universally appealing as it sounds, instead it is a pick up and put it anywhere “cookie cutter” use of a limited palette of plants that fall short of inspiring!