Conservation Specialist
copyright 2010
This week's Inside Out show show will be a short 2 hour program so talk time will be at a premium.
I will still have a plant of the week but also in response to the interest in lawn renovation and weed problems, I am posting the advice of MY favorite St. Louis TURF Expert, Glenn Kraemer- with some comments of my own.
I also included his contact information because I believe every situation is unique and he is best suited to help with specific problems.
These are the guidlines I followed while managing the turf area in the Bird Garden at the MoBot's Kemper Center for Home Gardening- It looked fabulous during the time I worked with Glenn to create a more eco-freindly routine.
In a short time, the weeds were gone, the chemical use was reduced by more than 85% and supplemental water appplications by more than 50%. IN short it is almost alwasy possible to make positive environmental changes in how you care for your lawn!
Step by Step Fall Renovation Plan for Cool Season Grass by Missouri Botanical Garden’s Turf Educator Glenn Kraemer with MaryAnn Fink’s commentary!
The best time for fall turf renovation starts with weed control in mid to late Aug, Turf seeding begins in early September- and the ultimate goal is to finish all steps including three mowings before mid-late October!
Decide if broad leaf weeds (as in not “grass like” foliage) are a problem- if so a post emergent herbicide spray may be necessary- apply per label’s instructions. Be sure the final application is two weeks prior to seeding! Use Turflon Ester for violets and ground ivy, Trimec for all other broadleafs. Sprays only. Be sure to read the labels!
If you are trying to control nut sedge with Sedge Hammer or Pro-Sedge-there must also be a two week interval between the last treatment of the sedge product and the seeding or reseeding effort! Always follow product directions as stated on the label. Be aware that heavy a infestation of nutsedge or long established mature nutsedge (nutsedge is maturing when it begins developing their spiky seed heads) may require more than one application of control product!
Remove any leaves or sticks and spread a thin layer of top soil to level any areas as needed.
After dropping mower blade to 2” height-mow grass- and then reset mower back to 31/2” mow height ( do this so that you don’t mow that low again till late October when you do your final cut! You want your grass to have grown well enough to need at least three mowing before cold weather sets in so it is mature enough to withstand winter)
Flag all irrigation heads and utilities that can be damaged by machinery!
Power rake and / or core aereate-you can’t aererate too much! Using both machines is best but expensive! Rake up and remove thatch- any healthy turf that remains intact- leave it intact. Grass debris can be composted or disposed of with yard waste/ trimmings.
Spread first the seed (make sure it is fresh and premium quality blend of turf fescue-I prefer not to use any annual or perennial blue grass or rye grass mixes- consult with Glenn for his seed recommendations for your specific site)
Spread the seed starter fertilizer (not all fertilizers are compatible with seeding-check the label. Some fertilizers are too strong and some have pre-emmergents added- both will interfere with starting a new lawn or renovating a lawn).
Power rake or use a leaf rake and re-rake the entire area again! This incorporates the seed lightly. Don’t try to bury it! This rate procedure will insure good seed to soil contact and will also help prevent the grass seed from washing away. This also decreases the grass seed’s visability from scrounging birds. Do NOT use straw which is filled with all types of viable –ready to grow the minute you turn your back, weed seeds!!!!!!
If an area is complete bare of any turf, or very thinly populated with grass, top dress (spread thinly) the seeds and soil with a thin layer of peat moss, finely grated soil or Penn Mulch (available thru G.R. Robinson’s seed company) I have used the left over thatch material I had raked up with various degrees of success- it frequently clumps too heavily and suffocates the grass seed) DO NOT USE STRAW-ALL TURF PROFESSIONALS KNOW NOT TO USE STRAW!!!!!!!! Only incompetents or people who don’t care about the end result use straw!
Water the soon to be the most beautiful lawn enough to keep the top ½” of soil moist for 2-3 weeks. You will have to water every day and some days perhaps twice- drying out is fatal to grass seed- and so watering so much that there are puddles!!! Avoid heavy watering, infrequent watering and beware of creating puddles! The goal is evenly moist not wet/dry or soggy!
Between the second and third week, mow the entire grass area with the mow blade set at 31/2” height –bag the clippings. Bagging is necessary to help prevent smothering the new baby grass.
After the second mowing, start watering more deeply but water just every 3-4 days.
If weeds start sprout up- (and they might-weed seeds live in the soil a long time waiting for the first chance they get to take hold) Do not apply any herbicide (weed killers) until you have mowed the grass at least 3-4 times. By then it may be too cool for effective control of weeds-READ THE LABEL! Fall is a great time to control weeds but it also the best time to grow a thick strong turf which is the BEST control for decreasing weeds next spring!!
If you are having a lot of leaves falling on the new grass don’t let them accumulate for more than 2-3 days. Blow them off with a leaf blower or cut the grass at the 31/2 “ mowing height with a bagger. Leaves will smother out the new grass!
Thanks to Glenn Kraemer , GR Robinson Seed Company, 8674 Olive Street, 63132, (314) 432-0300 for his input, his love of turf and the quality turf products he provides to both the horticulture industry and retail customers. Please call Glenn for any additional information, grass seed or turf products!
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