Relief From Tree Root Erosion in Turf ?
One of the problems with having established trees in a landscape / turf setting is the potential to create an unattractive, unhealthy and unnatural situation for the tree, the grass, and the soil. Even the water percolation / runoff becomes a factor when trees mature the once nice lawn becomes shaded, and the soil’s organic matter cycle is disrupted.
Once air pockets collapse and no new micro-particles develop, and the sun loving grass falters in the shade and competes with the tree for water, the ground becomes exposed, the soil collapses sinks and erodes away and the tree’s roots are exposed and damaged by lawn mowers. Not to mention as the settling occurs hazards and expenses develop including buckled sidewalks and driveways, which increases the potential for tripping over roots and worst of all the uncared unsightly look surfaces too!
Why Surface Roots?Roots typically “appear “(they were most likely there sooner but were just smaller) after a few years or when tree trunks are 5” in diameter or larger. Many trees have a “reputation” for this but all trees need to breathe, just some are more visible and are commonplace. Because of their durability and availability, they are used often enough that they are frequently seen as the “guilty party” at these challenge sites
There may be some value in being sure to avoid very fast growing trees where there is a combination of grading issues; off road foot traffic and minimal care (this fits the description of many subdivisions’s common ground area)
Certainly Maples are frequently blamed. Skinned roots, mechanical damage to their naturally thin bark from weed whackers and lawn mowers and victimization from poorly timed and armature pruning techniques from either the management company’s repair crew or the fortunate neighbor who has to look at the site every day is the tree’s typical punishment- along with dog feces and urine.
This is the price adaptable trees pay for being easy, having great fall color and being favored by humans that sometimes err on best selection for some sites. For the Association Boards and other “with good intentions” and “out of necessity stewardship” volunteers, there is a learning curve which looks more like an assending graph chart in stead of a curve. It is a visual for what “too little, too late” knowledge looks like and what it can that mean in dollars to residents who want to have an attractive green space. And, this is a also the cost curve and poor reputation peak for the ever challenged mowing company. It is a sad fact of guilty by “association”. Both by being seen to close to “the problem” and by being all the Association” has to point a finger.
Here is my thoughts and what I might do in a situation, some facts and thoughts about what can be done!
Surface rooting appears to be promoted by heavy, poorly drained, and/or shallow soils,(clay) which has low oxygen (because no new organic matter has been cycled into the soil making air pockets for water and air. The roots need oxygen to grow, and so tend to form near the surface of the soil, then the soil sinks and erodes, and they become visible at and sometimes even above the soil surface as they become larger.
Can You Prune The Roots-I don’t Recommended it!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
To me this is a radical approach to a poor situation. End the tree’s misery may seem less painless than struggling to cut the roots off cleanly (and not just cut off their aboveground parts-ouch) this procedure could invite infection and decay organisms! Even the best possible job of pruning large roots seems like it would result in severe damage to the tree—maybe even death! There is a faster way to kill a tree-trust me I have seen it all
I have heard the advice “never cut off more than half of a tree's functioning roots” I think this is an interesting idea- who knows which ones are functioning? And why would a tree grow a root it didn’t need? And no doubt some roots die off- but I hardly wonder-why!
I like the recommendation on removing roots that “one fourth or less is better.” Can anyone really “know” how much is 1/4th ? I do not have access to a tree’s total underground mass- to measure it- probably there is a way- but I doubt that whoever is doing the root pruning is using such refined technology.
“After care” must be important too- since it is always mentioned- is that like "after the accident or after fact-you hurt it? Like an apology for cutting off someone’s legs and lungs.
“After pruning, pamper the tree by treating it as if it had just been transplanted”- Gee, one night mare after another! I was hoping most of them forgot their transplant nightmares.
Also I suggest being careful any time there is a suggestion to “ give lots of water” this isn’t a de-hydrated jogger- this is a tree that has no way to modify-you or adjust to any change except try to adapt. A passing thought of concern on this is : less plant roots, less ability to pick up water, more chance to rot. Heaven only know what else happens as well. I would rather “better planning” rather than latent and injurious care!
Solutions? Not as Good as My Recommendation “Just Don’t Do this!”
Bare Minimum is BEST
Solutions? Not as Good as My Recommendation “Just Don’t Do this!”
Bare Minimum is BEST
I think a less drastic way to solve the problem if it is not a major erosion or slope issue is to determine the outer perimeter / boundaries where the grass just begins to thin and the situation starts to degrade and create an “under canopy relief zone” for the tree.
I am going to describe how I would approach this situation. There maybe many other ways to do this, I guess but I have done this many times in the past and I was always satisfied with the end result- both immediate and long term.
Forgive me is I don’t explain it all right, I have done this more often than described it and it varies from situation to situation. This is what I might do- your situation might be different. Please be responsible for your own actions, read and proceed alwasy with with care-no results are implied or guaranteed-ever! (I always worry when anyone says they can guarentee the life of anything -who do they think they are?)
Using a hose or rope, I would create a puddle /organic shape that is practical shape to mow around. Be sure to extend it extends to where you have confidence that the grass grows well-in August- not June!
With marker paint, outlinethe area , remove the hose (hopefully I did this with minimal paint overspray( iave ruinedgloves, shoes, etc!) - and use it! Yes, I suggest to my friends to always water the entire area well and wait one to two days. I never work with any plant in a “thirsty” condition-in a container or the ground (hint: the tree is a plant!). Also working with evenly moist soil is easier on everyone- including me!
Next create a shallow shovel edgewhere at the paint outline. This creates a dip between the turf area and the relief zone and where the mulch edge will meet the grass. Pitch the soil from the newly created small ditch into the shaded failed turf area. If more soil is needed, which is possible- try to use real soil from the surface of somewhere on the same property (perhaps from another “property situation”)
Topcoat no more than 1-2 inches with soil only the area between and around the exposed surface roots with the same native soil, all the while avoid putting soil on, around or against the trunk.
Next do a gentle clearing of debris such as bigger twigs. Remove hopeless grass patches and make a shallow clawing effort to break the soil surface wherever there is no evident of roots inside the “zone”. This will help renew the soil’s percolation ability and integrate the newly added soil with the existing soil. Protect this area's integrity- do not walk on this! I use boards- moving them around where I need to work so I don’t re-compact the now loosened soil. I look at the trunk flare to visualize what I can about the root pattern as it spreads away from the trunk. I love doing this type of apologetic activity as it frequently increases: everyone’s awareness of the problem. Informing the residents if this is a public / common ground situation can also help be aware of similar problems elsewhere- more eyes are always good! It also increases their awareness of the time and cost issues.
This “under canopy relief zone” will help Nature restart what needs to be an ongoing effort to constantly recreate micro and macro pore space for air / water exchange. Hopefully doing this has caused minimal damage. I have never lost a tree doing this yet- but I am very careful and very sensitive to the area. Under trees is to me sort of sacred ground!
IMPORTANT: Don't use ever use a tiller under a tree canopy/ drip line –even farther away can cause serious damage! Don’t cover the roots when adding the soil-put it around them in the sunken craters. Don’t add more than 1-1/2-2” of soil MAX. If it looks like it needs more than that- make plans to do this again- NEXT YEAR!
This is not “the solution” if I have major erosion issues. Many combined activities may be needed to deal with degraded and unstable soil. Creating a “under canopy relief zone” for a tree is best done early in the post establishment phase of a landscape, before there is a huge problem. My prefered option is make a relief zone at planting!!!!!
This make-up activity is a “help” for small scale tree root erosion problems in turf situation! (Hear them yell “HELP”)
Final step: Now add a 1-2” layer of coarse hardwood mulch to the entire "relief zone" to the perimeter-/ trenched edge-still being careful to minimize foot work. Follow this immediately with a gentle watering of the entire area and its bordering turf! This will give the whole project some relief. (Relief for all parties involved-including the tree and those who didn’t know what could be done outside of removing a tree! Next time, you’ll know a better way!
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