Saturday, April 24, 2010

KTRS 550 Inside Out Show Plant of the Week April 24 2010


Fringe Tree Chionanthus virginicus

MaryAnn Fink,
Conservation Specialist
Copyright 2010

Fringe tree is a stout spring flowering Missouri native tree, commonly called Old Man’s Beard. What many don’t know is he is uncommonly handsome! He rivals any readily available flowering ornamental tree on any lot with his “sigh inspiring” good looks.
Perhaps it is his common name to blame. It is rare to see anyone’s Grandpa or even a realistic Santa Claus clone with facial hair that compares with Fringe tree’s beautiful silken white froth!

He outshines the fanciful collector choices obtained through horticulture’s “catalog candy” shopping and the way too common bread and butters sold in ridiculous quantities during spells of “asphalt fever”. (See warning below)

He does have some interesting habits and notables. He preferred to be maintained as a multistemed specimen. His posture is casual with a rounded shoulders profile and low branches that offer just enough shrug to let you know he is easy going and congenial even in less than best circumstances. In flower, his sweetness pleases more than the eye. His fragrance is light, not overpowering and wonderfully fresh.

He is capable even in his youth of supporting a frothy mass of fragrant white flowers. In nature he is found mixing it up in low moist woods particularly near stream banks. He is most noticeable in spring dotting sunny hillsides or balancing precariously on rocky ledges. Birds seem to relish the fall fruit that develops on the hard to find female trees. They are usually sparsely present and partially hidden by the yellowing foliage.

His natural range which extends from southern New Jersey and southeastern Pennsylvania south to Florida, and westward to Texas shows he is both attractive and functional. A choice companion for sites with “issues” especially landscapes needing erosion control and rain gardens needing structure!

Care Rating: 1 He seldom needs any type of pruning, and requires minimal water once established (though he looks better, flowers more and seems to produce and hold more leaves when not drought stressed repeatedly.) Although extended drought or extreme dry conditions will effect his performance, he does "tolerate" less than perfect sites and air pollution. He is likely to adapts to city life with ease- just don’t leave him thirsty all the time. Watch for scale and borers particularly if he is grown in dry locations!

(Uncommon Rant-If you are sensitive about where you shop or your plant knowledge- call for help and don't continue reading- just know I am here and willing to offer advice.)
Warning: Asphalt Fever: This type of spring fever can be contagious! It is usually caught in the crowd flow when passing through parking lots of discount stores filled with florist plants, heat intolerant annuals and spring flowering trees and shrubs.

The fever emerges annually with the bloom of forsythia, is rampant by the time dogwoods bloom and peaks in late spring. It is virtually uncontrollable, resulting in bouts of purchase frenzy. CURRENTLY NO IMMUNIZATION IS AVAILABLE!

Best preventative practice includes strong doses of shopping advice from local reputable nursery professionals. They are familiar with fever, understand its effects and although they themselves are not immune, they can offer preventative advice that can temper and help manage the unnecessary side effects of the fever, most notably the resulting unfortunate landscape!

Additional cautionary measures: Buyer bewares! Although there is always new strains (not really) detected, the sickness is frequently the same. It causes impulsive purchases that victimizing young and elderly home owners and horticulturally “weak” land managers.

The fever’s after-effects are frequently permanent, resulting in investment loss, buyer’s remorse when the poor quality is realized and low product survivability- the landscape can be forever compromised!
The part that grieves me the most is when I get reports that the so called " hypnotic " flowers have fallen off, usually within a week of planting. This usually happens just as the fever subsides. The victims do have spells of nausea when they realize that all the dedicated space and the work/ time spent for only a week or two of flowers. There are also occasional reports of unexplainable and sometimes reoccurring memories and prayerful vigilance held while waiting (forever) for a repeat performance!

Sunday, April 11, 2010

KTRS 550 Inside Out Show Special Edition April 11 2010 Dogged by Dogwood Failures


Lost Dog (wood)
or Misssouri Dogwoods “dogged” by failure problems

( or how about this-read it like a news headline)

DOG (WOOD) RATHER DIE THAN BE TAMED!

OR (As I recall a beautiful one in a seemingly wrong place between a Bob Evan restaurant and a Drury Inn)
DOG (wood) GONE GOOD (! Or ? ) Which a question or an exclamation, I can’t decide?

Perhaps then I should go with: Dogwood Dilemma, since I am trying to stress the important connection between site and success. Yet always there to impress and haunt me, is the unexplainable, occasional, thriving, seemingly perfect Flowering Dogwood speciemen in someone’s backwoods or even their front yard! I may as well admit- I have both a headache and the ahhh feeling- oh the wonder of it all!

(Readers -pick your favorite article title and I will amend accordingly!)

Horticulturaly speaking, Flowering Dogwood (Cornus florida) is reported to “do best” in evenly moist but not soggy, slightly acidic soil with morning sun and lightly filtered afternoon shade.
(However when reading site information to avoid dreaded diseases- full sun is sometimes recommended-humm!)
Either way what is most clear to me is there are some fairly specific needs that need to be met in order to have a successful Flowering Dogwood. I doubt any tree book or professional article would read- “Flowering Dogwood- easy, adaptable to wide range of light, growing conditions and soils- no health or pest problems” at least that that doesn’t seem to be true.

Here is a quick quiz: What do these places have in common?

The compacted subsoil of new construction lots
poorly drained parking lot medians,
polution-filled roadsides
public parks with minimal staff and no way to provide supplemental water in drought periods,
Concrete planting pits, possibly the nightmare of the future!
Boulevards with low obstruction intolerance
Aging alleyways that appear to be nearly abandoned except for the trash can patrol
Wind tunnel walkways located on “inspired” commercial campus,
Air conditioner screening opportunity
In the path of mow and blow crews that lack horticulture concern AND steering abilities
and last but not least a very green “brownfield redevelopment site”

ANSWER: Places Dogwoods have died!
More politly said- The common denominator for these locations is that they are "not suitable"
"promising " or “best ever” Dogwood planting sites!

Here are a few frequently given reasons for “Dogwood failure”(translated means: dead dogwoods)

“planted where exposed to intense heat sources” ie: adjacent to parking lots / air conditioner units etc.
“low salinity tolerance"
“Mechanical damage “(mower or weed trimmer damage on the trunk )
“Construction site/ compressed root zone” ie: roots damage
"Transplant shock" three days, one month, two months, six months etc!

Here is my favorite failure report description that no one should ever want to hear: “Trees appears to be weak. Possibly suffering from multiple diseases including possible Dogwood anthracnose / Scorch. All trees in various stages of complete decline-recommend removal.”(oowch)

I suggest to both homeowners and land managers who have taken a fancy to this beautiful native tree, get to know and appreciate the potential for its loss ( unofficial rumor is that some years in Missouri there has been as high as 50% failure/ loss for first year transplants ) Since hearing this, I always take time to marvel when I see a Cornus florida thriving and in full flower- another ahhhhh!

Recommendations: Request to see your favorite Nursery’s Missouri nursery inspection certificate, Discuss your warranty in detail before purchasing a dogwood tree including replacement policy and seasonal availability. Following your purchase, keep your receipt and make a point of keeping communication lines open with your Nursery Manager. Some problems are not problems at all, a few are correctable and every conversation is a learning opportunity.

Hire only Certified Arborist to care for your trees. Become familiar with the Dogwood’s most common problems and if you decide to go ahead with planting- especially if there is multiple groupings of trees, ask me to help you put together a "care plan" that includes inspecting and logging the “current condition” of the trees- This should be done frequently, even weekly during the peak heat and stress periods.

Final Word: Answer to your questions- Yes I love Dogwoods-Yes I am monitoring and recording several dogwoods currently under my care. Yes I would plant one if I was as confident as possible about placement and all the other issues because –they are the most beautiful wildlife habitat choices in the right place!

Helpful Links:
Common Dogwood questions
More questions and answers
Dogwood Diseases
Dogwood Anthracnose

More about Dogwoods

Tuesday, April 6, 2010

550 KTRS Inside Out Show Spring Break Plant of the DAY April 6 2010


Tropical Blue Plumbago

If you love blue flowers and butterflies, then Blue Plumbago is for you!
This big boy has good vigor, high color impact and great humidity tolerance. This makes the challenge to find the right spot for his lax stems, worth the effort- especially when they are loaded with flowers!

His best use maybe isn’t in the typical hanging baskets, though that is frequently the way you can purchase him (though it does make my heart skip a beat when I look up at the flowers and the sky and, well I feel like I can touch heaven!)

He is able to stand our heat, but not so much so when the water is limited to just what a basket can hold. He does ask for a commitment-he requires daily watering! (forgetting this means more than hurting his feelings- he stops bringing you flowers opps -I hear a song “you don’t bring me flowers-anymore- sad moment remembered, favorite POP person of the past, funny phone messages- bring a smile )

Perhaps I did best when I accepted that he (meaning this tropical lover) is who he is- a seasonal plant, just here for the summer. I try to make this one of my BMP-PP (Best Management Practices for Plants and People) It takes practice to accept someone for who they are, but it ends up better for everyone.

In the plant world that means really knowing and caring where a plant came from, what he likes, what he needs. Once I accepted him and let him “do his thing” in the ground- I enjoyed him even more and without much regret! (I always wanted to keep everything- but unfortunately- no greenhouse! I use to dream about having a rental greenhouse house where people brought their “keepers” for the winter, I would care for them, love them all winter long and give them back each spring. Later I decided most tropicals don’t love back so much in the winter and they get sick and then what if no one came back to get them and they were abandoned- oh no!)

Back to Plumbago (or Blue Boy as I affectionately call him)
After returning from visiting my landscape architect relative in Hawaii, (yes talent runs in the family- but he is on my husband’s side) This is where I really fell in love- he (Blue Boy) was this most handsome informal hedge border that wrapped around my cousins’ personal garden-He was breathtaking!)

When I returned home I planted my Blue Plumbago in the ground and ever after made purchasing and planting Plumbago as an annual tradition and memory plant of that wonderful trip.
I also have to admit, I don’t think I had any idea of what a grand butterfly magnet this “blue phlox “was either, but I learned! Thank heavens (see he makes you think like that-with all that blue) I placed him where I could sit near him and enjoy his many “attractive “qualities! I had so many butterflies that year!

To keep this tropical beauty “attractive” (in flower) plan for “special time” / regular grooming. Each pruning session seems to stimulate another growth flush and more flowers- as long as there is adequate moisture and nutrients in the soil. (He confirmed another of my BMP-PP beliefs, choose to spend quality time, you usually will get something more in return- in this case flowers!)

He is native to South Africa, in places where the soil is slightly acidic, so if he does struggle with yellowish foliage, there maybe a need manganese. Wait and see if this becomes a problem before adding anything to the soil as you may be fortunate not to need it. You can throw your soil “off balance”, even with a “balanced” fertilizer if you add fertilizers willy –nilly!

Saturday, April 3, 2010

KTRS 550 Inside Out Show Spring Break April 3 Show Me Smart Watering Tips


A Few Smart Water Wise Tips for Missouri:


Combines beauty and function with Missouri –friendly plants that thrive on efficient water use! Here are a few very basic principles of eco-smart landscaping for your garden:


1. Select plants for your region and local situation. Dry areas are perfect for less-than-thirsty plants. Match moisture lovers to low spots, swales and dry creek / storm water runoff areas. Consider turf as an accent for your garden. Treat it like a plant, chose the best type of grass, grow it well and mow it at a height that supports and cools good deep roots- For most grasses, that means setting your mower high as possible, to at the least 3” high.


2. Group plants carefully and consider trees, shrubs, ground covers, perennials and annuals for your garden. Learn about what grows together naturally in the same or similar plant communities and be sure they require about the same amount of water.


3. Use water as a resource not a waste product. This means pay attention to your plants need for water instead of by timers or calendars. Plants in flowers require more water than when they are not flowering. Water stress reduces flowering! Always monitor your water application to avoid runoff and overspray. Better to turn off too soon than to overwater!


4. Loosen your soil. Routinely cultivate it, incorporating reasonable amounts of organic matter such as compost. Annually! Doing so improves the soil’s ability to resist evaporation and retain moisture. Be careful when aerating heavy or compacted soil around trees!


5. Mulch. A maximum of two- to three -inch layer of mulch evens out temperature extremes, keep soil cool on hot days and warm on cool days. It needs raking and fluffing monthly to prevent crusting, this allows better air and water penetration. Take a cue from nature and choose one of many organic mulches that add great visual texture to your landscape, such as shredded bark or chips, wood grindings, or compost. Even low-growing ground cover can be used but remember-it doesn’t know your limits! You set the the boundaries! Inorganic mulches, such as gravel or rock, especially with barrier cloth create pearched water situations, compact the soil and hold heat. Ocassionally gravel is appropriate for use with plants susceptible to crown rot.


6. PLANT TREES! Trees help to lower air and soil temperatures, reducing plant and soil moisture loss. They do drink a lot of water- but they give back to the environment so much more!


Join me at Oma’s Barn April 7th for First of my Walk and Talk-Bloom and Groom Sereis- call for Lisa for details- it is free and everyone is welcome!

Tuesday, March 30, 2010

KTRS 550 Inside Out Show Spring Break Updates Butterfly Gardening

by MaryAnn Fink
Conservation Specialist
copyright 2010


BUILD A BETTER BUTTERFLY GARDEN (See Plant list at end of this blog!)

• Install native flowering plants – Because many butterflies and native flowering plants have co-evolved over time and depend on each other for survival and reproduction, it is particularly important to install native flowering plants local to your geographic area. Native plants provide butterflies with the nectar or foliage they need as caterpillars and adults.


Adult butterflies could possibly mistake a non-native, invasive plant for a good egg-laying site, which could prevent the survival of its offspring. Grow your nectar-producing native plants in sunny areas that are protected from strong winds.

The Lady Bird Johnson Wildflower Center has lists of recommended native plants by region and state at www.wildflower.org/ collections.

Better Butterfly Garden Checklist:


• Plant type and color is important – Adult butterflies are attracted to red, yellow, orange, pink, and purple blossoms that are flat-topped or clustered, and have short flower tubes.


• Plant for continuous bloom - Butterflies need nectar throughout the adult phase of their life span. Try to plant so that when one plant stops blooming, another begins.


• Get them to stay – To ensure that butterflies will take up residence in your habitat rather than just pass through, your garden should include “host plants” that serve as larval (caterpillar) food.


• Avoid herbicides and pesticides – These types of lawn care and plant maintenance products contain chemicals that will kill butterflies and other beneficial insects in both their adult and larval phases.


• Provide a place to rest – Butterflies need sun for orientation and to warm their wings for flight. Place flat stones in your garden to provide space for butterflies to rest and bask in the sun.
Inspiring Americans to protect wildlife for our children’s future.


Common Butterflies and the plants they eat (This is for Missouri and most of the lower Midwest)

American Painted Lady- cudweed, everlast
Black Swallowtail- parsley, dill, fennel, Queen Anne’s lace, common rue, zizia
Eastern Tiger Swallowtail - wild black cherry, tulip tree, willow, sweetbay, basswood
Giant Swallowtail - prickly ash, citrus, common rue, hoptree
Monarch - milkweeds
Painted Lady (Cosmopolite) - thistles, mallows
Red Admiral/White Admiral- wild cherries, black oaks
Silver-spotted Skipper- locusts, other legumes
Spicebush Swallowtail- sassafras, spicebush
Sulphurs- clover, alfalfa, asters
Viceroy- willows, cottonwood
Western Tiger Swallowtail- willow, plum, alder, sycamore, hoptree
Zebra Swallowtail- pawpaw

To search for butterflies in your state or county, visit www.butterfliesandmoths.org/map.
For more information about MaryAnn's favorite projects, speaking engagement details or Eco-audit/ Landscape consultations, contact MaryAnn at http://www.maryannfink.com/.

Saturday, March 27, 2010

KTRS 550 Inside Out Show Spring Break Plant of the WeekMarch 27th 2010

by MaryAnn Fink
Conservation Specialist
copyright 2010



(Am I the only one still working?)





Golden Threadleaf False Cypress



Chamaecyparis pisifera ‘Filifera Aurea’ – A hardy and beautiful golden false cypress with soft weeping foliage that adds casual elegance to any landscape year round!



She does well in either full sun or part shade. She even tolerates clay quite well as long as it is very well drained. Heavy shade may cause the foliage to be thinner, slightly sparce and be shades of apple green.



Even when well placed and perfectly happy, she is a still a slow grower in Missouri requiring at most a gentle and minimal heading back pruning every few years to maintain height . She can be easily kept under 4’. She needs at least two full growing seasons to become established enough to be fairly drought tolerant.





Remember Missouri is not a good candidate for xeriscaping unless you want Zero-landscaping. A typical season in Missouri requires our plants to appreciate spring rains, hot and usually humid summer, variable falls and both wet and dry winters! Water tolerance is as necessary of requirement for plants in this area as heat and drought tolerance!

Thursday, March 25, 2010

KTRS 550 Inside Out Show Special Weekday Edition March 25 2010


by MaryAnn Fink
Conservation Specialist
copyright 2010

Missouri’s native Redbud welcomes spring with contagious enthusiasm. Her giddy pink buds are not confined to just her outer branches, but also collect in condensed crowds in less likely places! This includes her branch crooks, crannies, and trunks! This random sprinkling of bud clusters seem like fairy size cheerleader squads preparing for this season’s playoff. The shade of pink is very noisy as it peaks and shouts for competition! (I do think I can hear some whispering shouts- or is that me wanting to join the color parade when the sign of warmer weather arrives!)

The Redbud likes living near her family and getting situated in her permanent home as early as possible. She is most adaptable when purchase her as a young sapling tree that has been sourced locally for best hardiness! Always ask your nursery professional about his plant sources and background details! Reputable nurseries keep that information, are willing to share and even brag about these green details of their native plants and are proud to offer their customers the most viable options to insure success!

Her placement is critical for both for viewing and longevity. The best location for her is where there is early season full sun and summer filtered shade. She is fine with average soil but wants fairly consistent moisture.

She can get sick especially when she is too stressed. For long life and significant contribution to the landscape, be sure to site her right. Help her have her best vigor by monitoring her growth responses and her moisture needs in extended drought situations. By the way, she has a reputation for being very chemically sensitive, so avoid using any turf products with 2-4D type ingredients.

Her growth needs to be managed during her formative years, so she does not develop crowded branching and weak forks. She has a natural tendency to develop a low branching habit sometimes with multiple trunks. In nature this shape allows her to adapt to best possible option for sunlight in an understory situation, but in a cultivated space, she may be able to retain her low set “v” and irregular growth habit and develop into a beautiful and graceful spreading ornamental tree.

You must stay watchful for irregular complex, congested growth and branching habits as your Redbud develops. I typically avoid purchasing specimens with these "growing" characteristics as they may lead to complicated pruning decisions. I have found from personal experience that specimens with these strong tendencies frequently "grow" to be structural issues that lead to un-repairable breakage and even early death.
Formative pruning become a challenge to reduce the size of lateral branches to less then half the diameter of the main trunk. It is recommended to always choose trees with ‘U’-shaped crotches, instead of those with narrow ‘V’ formations which will cause too “tight” crotches. Take time to look at the branching habit and compare trees to each other before making your selection. Look for branches spaced about 6 to 10 inches apart along the main trunk. Also note Redbuds have thin bark so be sure to create a "relief zone" at the time of planting-see previous blog entry about "relief zone" for trees!